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Monforte de Lemos – 6 Things to do on a rainy day

10/12/2014

The town of Monforte de Lemos is situated in the Val de Lemos, a vast undulating plain in the south of Lugo province, Galicia. Regarded as the heart of the Ribeira Sacra, the town attracts national and international tourists during the long summer months. As well as being the administrative centre of the area’s denominacion de origin (a wine and food quality standard for a specific geographical area), Monforte boasts many historic monuments. Out of season, the weather is less predictable. Here are my suggestions of things to do on a rainy day.

Monforte de Lemos

1. Ribeira Sacra Centro de Vino

An ideal starting point for any visitor is the tourist information office. It’s located in Rua Comercio in the heart of the old town. Housed in the same building is the Ribeira Sacra Centro de Vino (Wine museum). As well as interesting exhibitions, the museum offers visitors an interactive experience and tells the story of this unique wine growing region. Within this modern facility is a laboratory used for wine testing. The Ribeira Sacra etiquette (a small wine label guaranteeing its origin) is also issued from here.

Looking out from the Ribeira Sacra Centro de Vino

2. Torre da Homenaxe

Perched on a hilltop in the centre of Monforte is the Torre da Homenaxe or Homage Tower. Built between the thirteenth and fifteenth centuries it dominates the skyline. The tower is 13 metres square with walls over 3 metre thick and stands 30 metres high. The views from the top of the tower over the town and surrounding countryside are outstanding. There are exhibitions inside including arms and furniture from the period. Visitors can also buy locally sourced handmade products.

Torre da Homenaxe

3. Monasterio Benedictino de San Vicente del Pino

The Torre da Homenaxe shares its hilltop position with the Benedictine monastery of San Vicente del Pino. Its origins date back to the tenth century. Today’s building was constructed in the sixteenth century in the neoclassical style. Ten years ago, after extensive restoration, the monastery opened its doors to the public as a luxury Parador hotel. The cafeteria provides a wonderful location to enjoy a cup of coffee or sample a glass of local wine.

Monasterio Benedictino de San Vicente del Pino

4. Colegio Nosa Señora da Antiga

Arguably, Monforte’s most architecturally impressive building is the Colegio Nosa Señora da Antiga, known locally as the Escolapios. Construction began in 1593. The building displays two perfectly symmetrical wings centred on a large domed church. Within the college is a museum featuring outstanding works of art, most famous of which are paintings by El Greco. The church features a huge altar. Commissioned in 1625 it’s almost 20 metres tall and 9 metres wide. Look closely at the semicircular domed ceiling and you’ll see the damage caused by the Lisbon earthquake of 1755.

Colegio Nosa Señora da Antiga

5. Museo de Arte Sacro de la Madre Clarisas

In the seventeenth century the 7th Count of Lemos founded the convent of the Clarissa nuns. The count owned an impressive collection of sacred artefacts which he donated to the convent. From this collection the Museum of Sacred Art was formed. Today its treasures are regarded as some of the best in Spain underlining the importance of Monforte de Lemos during the Middle Ages.

Museo de Arte Sacro de la Madre Clarisas

6. Museo del Ferrocarril de Galicia

On the outskirts of Monforte is the Galicia Railway Museum. In 1883 King Alfonso XII opened the Madrid to A Coruña line. As a consequence, Monforte became an important railway junction. In the mid-twentieth century this responsibility was moved to the city of Ourense. To help preserve its railroad heritage, a huge workshop was converted into a railway museum. Antique locomotives, coaches and other rolling stock are now on display.

Museo del Ferrocarril de Galicia

Whatever the weather, Monforte de Lemos offers visitors many fascinating places to visit, packed with priceless artefacts and steeped in history.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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Montederramo – Determined to survive

3/12/2014

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Nestled in the foothills of the Sierra de San Mamede mountain range in the province of Ourense, is the town of Montederramo. Like many inland towns and villages in Galicia, its population has been in decline for many years. At the turn of the century over 4000 souls called this isolated community home, by 1981 that total had almost halved and today stands at less than 1000. This worrying trend is mirrored throughout many parts of Spain.

The Monastery of Montederramo

The town’s decline contrasts sharply with its influential status during the latter half of the Middle Ages. In 1124, Queen Teresa of Portugal granted a founding charter to Abbot Arnaldo to establish a Benedictine monastery in the area. It’s in this charter that the first written reference to the area known as the Ribeira Sacra (Rivoyra Sacrata) is made. Following the monastery’s affiliation to the Cistercian order, sometime between 1155 and 1163, it was granted many privileges by a succession of monarchs. Such were the value of these privileges that by the beginning of the 14th century Montederramo had one of the most important monasteries in Galicia.

Stunning ceilings

Its incorporation into the congregation of Castile, in 1518, represented the beginning of a period of monastic expansion. The church and its cloisters were completely replaced. The new church was built in the shape of a Latin cross; in the Herreriano style. Its three impressive naves are crowned with ribbed vaults. On the upper floor, the choir stalls have been beautifully renovated; the number of seats reflecting the church’s status. The high altar has also been painstakingly restored: carved from chestnut, it is illuminated with painted bible scenes.

Intricately carved chestnut altar

The monastery has two cloisters: Claustro Reglar which became an education centre for abbots and monks and Claustro Hospederia which housed guests and pilgrims. After the Ecclesiastical Confiscations of Mendizábal (Desamortización Eclesiástica de Mendizábal) in 1835, both cloisters were sold. In common with most Spanish monasteries, this government decree to expropriate and privatise the assets of the Catholic Church led to its abandonment. A period of neglect, plundering, and partial ruin was brought to an end by the current inhabitants of the municipality.

Claustro Hospederia

Arrangements for viewing the monastery are quite unique and reflect the town’s personality and charm. Opposite the church, to the right of the fountain, is a nondescript building marked out by a bright-yellow Correos (Post Office) sign. It’s here that visitors will find the local ayuntamiento (town hall). To view the monastery, ask at the post office counter; if it’s closed pop up to the first floor and ask again. Don’t let these unusual arrangements put you off: you’ll find everyone is extremely helpful and very proud to show off their church.

Choir stalls

Today the two cloisters are in private hands. In keeping with its former purpose, the Claustro Reglar is currently used as a centre of learning, to educate local children. Claustro Hospederia, is divided into private apartments and also houses the restaurant Casa Elvira (Praza 20, Montederramo, 32750 Ourense +34 988 292 019). It’s open seven days a week and serves a good selection of regional dishes including a great value menú del dia which is available Monday to Friday.

The restaurant Casa Elviria

The local people of Montederramo are doing their best to preserve this isolated rural community and its historic heritage from the ravages of time and changing patterns of migration. The next time you’re in the area, why not show your support by paying them a visit.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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Baiona – A pint-sized paradise

26/11/2014

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The seaside town of Baiona (Bayona), on the west coast of Galicia, is a modern resort with a long history. The earliest settlement dates back to 140 BC. Ownership of the town has changed hands many times, as has its name. For a short period, back in 1388, it even fell into the hands of John of Gaunt, the first Duke of Lancaster and the sixteenth richest person in recorded history.

Baiona - Castelo de Monterreal

The modern town is dominated by the Castelo de Monterreal. This medieval fortress occupies a prominent position on an outcrop overlooking the entrance to the bay. Its construction began in the 12th century and continued through until the 17th century. Today, this magnificent castle is operated as a luxury hotel. It was purchased by the state in 1963 and after extensive renovations re-opened in 1966 as a Parador Hotel.

Las Illas Estelas

On a clear day, the castle grounds provide the perfect location to view the islands of Las Illas Estelas. This small archipelago consists of two main islands and a group of islets called As Serralleiras. Together they form a protective barrier, sheltering the bay from the worst of the Atlantic weather. They’re home to huge colonies of gulls and cormorants but it’s what lies below the waterline that makes these islands so special. On the 30th of January 1976 the Liberian registered cargo ship Ivy, ran aground in high seas. The ship broke into three pieces and sank with the loss of four lives. The wreck formed an artificial reef that has spawned a unique marine environment, teaming with an extensive variety of marine life.

The castle grounds

Historically, Baiona is famous as the first place in Europe to hear of Columbus’ discovery of the New World. On the 1st of March 1493, Captain Martin Alonzo Pinzon of the ship Pinta, sailed into harbour with the news. The town celebrates this historic event with an annual fiesta The Pinta was one of three ships in Columbus’ fleet, Santa Maria and Niña being the others. An exact replica of the Pinta has become a floating museum. It’s moored in the harbour and shows visitors the life of a 15th century seaman.

Size matters

At first sight, Baiona looks like many contemporary seaside resorts. A wide, sweeping promenade runs along the front. A variety of boats are moored in the harbour, from the smallest rowing boat to luxury super yachts. Opposite the prom is an endless line of souvenir shops, fish restaurants, and fast-food eateries but behind this modern façade is an historic old town.

Stepping through time

This ancient world of narrow, cobbled lanes, medieval buildings, and small squares is in stark contrast to the modern seafront. Here you’ll find old churches and ancient fountains; and wherever you venture, the unmistakable smell of the sea.

Maintaining the balance

Unlike some towns along the Galician coast, Baiona has managed to move with the times without sacrificing its historic heritage.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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What treasures lay hidden among the chattels of life?

19/11/2014

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My question is prompted by the recent discovery of photos I once thought lost; in particular, a comical snap of a dear companion. The picture shows her lounging in an armchair, wearing the mother-in-law’s ridiculous sun hat and nuzzling up to a glass of red wine. It brought a smile to my face and a tear to my eye: a smile for all the wonderful memories and a tear at her passing.

Lady of Leisure

We first met one another in July 1998 at the Halifax branch of the RSPCA. Described as a Collie-cross, she was a shy, young puppy about 18 months old. The fact that she was more, ‘cross’ than Collie didn’t matter to us. We hit it off straight away and Jazz, or Badger as she was then known, became the dog for us.

We decided that a fresh start called for a new name. We tried all the old favourites, but not a twitch: the mother-in-law even suggested, “Ambulance”. But dogs have a way of choosing their own name and when Jasmine was mentioned, she plumped for that.

‘I’m not going out in public shouting Jasmine,’ I protested. So Jasmine quickly became Jazz.

She soon settled in to her new home but the past of a rescue dog is hidden in their eyes and viewed through their behaviour. Jazz was terribly nervous, the slightest gust of wind or rustle of leaves would see her jump with fright.

The eyes tell no lies

From the security of the lounge she would bark ferociously at the sight of ladders, much to the amusement of the window cleaner, and the appearance of another man in the house would send her cowering beneath my legs. Progress was slow but little by little she began to trust others.

When Melanie’s granny had a spell in hospital, Jazz delighted in her role as the ward petting dog. She became a firm favourite with patients and nursing staff alike and revelled in the attention. She would happily trot along hospital corridors and straight into the ward, cheering the lives of the old and infirm.

When we moved to Spain, in 2002, Jazz took it in her stride and literally jumped for joy at the size of her new garden. With each passing year Jazz became more confident and more popular. If for any reason we went away without her, friends would queue up to look after her.

Who's a pretty girl

In 2005 we decided to take a three week break in Lanzarote over Christmas and New Year. Jazz came along, travelling in the hold as excess baggage. We arrived at Arrecife airport not quite sure of the procedure and hovered around the luggage carousel with all the other passengers. Imagine our surprise when first onto the moving carousel was Jazz. A crescendo of ahhh, echoed through the arrivals lounge as Jazz barked her way around the revolving conveyor.

Fetch!

In later life, Jazz overcame major illness and a life threatening accident. Late one evening, on her final outing of the day, she spotted a rabbit and took chase. No longer a young pup, her ageing frame could not take the strain. The vertebrae in her back opened, trapping her spinal cord. She collapsed to the ground paralysed; screaming out in pain. Quickly I gathered her in my arms, ran home and called the emergency vet.

Breaking every speed limit, we arrived at the surgery within minutes. Our urgency saved her life. After spending two weeks motionless, she finally began to recover.

Shortly after her accident, she inexplicably collapsed; the diagnosis, a heart condition. The passing years were taking their toll. Her walks became shorter and less frequent; as a consequence she started to put on a few pounds, or so we thought. So concerned were we over her weight, we decided to have a word with the vet. Jazz had been through a lot over the last twelve months but her biggest fight was still to come – cancer.

Her, “few extra pounds” turned out to be a six kilo tumour, the size of a football. Once again she remained strong. For fifteen months she overcame this new medical challenge, much to the surprise of the vet.

‘Increíble, increible!’ he exclaimed

Increidible

Slowly but surely the last grains of sand slipped through her glass. She developed secondary skin cancer. Daily bathing kept her sores clean but they quickly spread. Jazz had given us a lifetime of selfless devotion; the time had come for us to do the same for her.

That final morning broke our hearts. On a warm, sunny autumn day, surrounded by those she loved, Jazz quietly passed away. She had trusted us in life and did the same in death.

Without her, the house felt empty and our lives incomplete. There was no bed to step over or dog to walk around. The house fell silent: I swear Melanie and I spoke more to Jazz than we do to each other.

We couldn’t possibly have another: the pain of losing Jazz was too much. We gave everything away, her food, her treats, even her toys. For almost four days we stayed steadfast to our decision.

‘You know all the things we were going to do when we didn’t have a dog?’ I said on the morning of the fourth day, ‘Well I don’t want to do them anymore – let’s get another.’

We knew that our vet volunteered at a rescue centre; we’d flicked through a folder of abandonados when Jazz was being treated.

‘I have just the dog for you,’ announced the vet. And so she did.

Slawit is our new companion, a beautiful Podenco Galego. Like Jazz it took her a while to settle in, but she has. Our family, and our lives, were once again complete; and harmony has been restored.

Slawit - completing the family circle

Giving a rescue dog a loving home will never repay the debt of loyalty they will show to you - but it’s a great start.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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Montefurado – Tunnel vision

12/11/2014

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Ancient history indicates that the alluvial plains along the river Sil in Galicia were a rich source of gold. However; it wasn’t until the Roman occupation in the 1st century, that extraction began on an industrial scale.

San Miguel de Montefurado

By the 2nd century work had begun on an ambitious engineering project in a place known today as Montefurado. The name originates from the galego words monte furado (pierced mountain). The project involved changing the course of the mighty river Sil by tunnelling through a mountain. In a pre-gunpowder era, tunnelling 120 metres through solid rock was no mean feat. Engineers achieved this by heating the rock with fires and then cooling it very quickly with water. This process weakens the rock, making tunnelling much easier.

A boca do monte (mouth of the mountain)

The tunnel became known as A Boca do Monte (mouth of the mountain) and is considered a masterpiece of Roman engineering. Most scholars agree that its purpose was to divert the course of the river. By doing so, a large meander, two and a half kilometres long, could be drained and the riverbed mined for gold. Others theorise that the tunnel itself was an integral part of the extraction process.

Ancient Roman gold mines

Mining activity can clearly be seen on the approach to the tunnel. Tall rock stacks stand like geological giants against a backdrop of a near vertical embankment of reddish rock. The Romans favoured hydraulic pressure as their primary mining tool. By using this method, large quantities of gold-laden debris would be washed into the river. Earlier surveys of the tunnel showed a 12 metre downstream incline which rose sharply towards the exit. The theory is that heavy gold particles would be trapped at the base of the incline. Periodically, the river’s flow could be altered in order to drain the tunnel and expose the accumulated gold deposits.

The tunnel and surrounding area

Today’s tunnel reflects only part of its former glory. In November 1934 heavy rainfall caused severe flooding resulting in a catastrophic collapse and reducing its overall length to 52 metres.

The impressive bell tower of the church of San Miguel

Overlooking the mouth of the tunnel is the village of San Miguel de Montefurado. The focal point of the village is the impressive 18th century parish church of San Miguel (Igrexa Parroquial de San Miguel). Oxidisation of the stonework has left the building with a rusty-red appearance. The three storey bell tower is particularly interesting; built on a scale out of character with its surroundings.

A maze of narrow streets

On first sight the village looks like many others in the area; once outside the main square its appearance rapidly changes. The narrow village streets are quiet and abandoned, as are most of the properties. Many village houses are either derelict or in such a poor state of repair that restoration is financially impractical.

A village in decline

The only hope for this decaying village rests in the sign of the scallop shell. San Miguel de Montefurado lies on the camino invierno (winter route). This alternative route from Ponferrada to the tomb of St. James in Santiago de Compostela, gains in popularity every year.

For seasoned pilgrims looking for a less popular way, or those yet to take up the challenge, why not consider the camino invierno? – I’m confident that you won’t be disappointed.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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The Castle of Monterrey – A Spanish Acropolis

5/11/2014

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The palace-fortress of Monterrey (O castello de Monterrei) occupies a commanding position on the outskirts of the city of Verín in the province of Ourense. During the Middle Ages, the castle was of major strategic importance due to its close proximity to the Portugese border.

The Castle of Monterrey

Construction of the exisiting castle began in the 12th century under the supervison of Alfonso Henriquez. Following his victory against the Moors at Campo Ourique in Alentejo in 1139, he was crowned the first king of Portugal.

A call to arms

Later in its history, in 1366, the castle became the venue for talks between Pedro I, also known as Peter the Cruel and his brother Henry of Castile. Attempts to resolve their family disputes failed. Three years later, Pedro I was murdered at the hands of his brother who went on to become king Henry II of Castile.

Hospital de Peligrinos

Located just outside the main fortifications is the Hospital de Pelegrinos (Pilgrims Hospital), built in 1391. For those making their way to the tomb of St. James in Santiago de Compostela, Monterrey was an important stop off. The castle intersects three camino routes; Via de la Plata, Caminho Português, and the Camino Sanabrés.

The Acropolis

Monterrey is the largest castle of its type in Galicia and is aptly named, ‘The Acropolis’. The fortifications were built along an elongated hilltop with excellent defensive qualities and unobstructed views over the surrounding countryside. Within the courtyard of the castle there is a 14 metre deep water well, essential to any defending force.

Palacio de los Condes

The Palacio de los Condes (Counts Palace) lies within the three walled enclosure. It was built between the 15th and 17th centuries in the renaisance style and features a symetrical upper and lower arcade with arches and columns. Adjacent to the palace is the 14th century Torre das Damas (Tower of the Ladies).

The church of Santa Maria de Gracia

Beyond that is the church of Santa Maria de Gracia. It’s built in the gothic style and dates from the latter part of the 13th century or early part of the 14th. The belltower is a later addition, built between 1660 and 1661.

Torre de Homenaxe

Perhaps the castle's most outstanding feature is the Torre de Homenaxe (Homage Tower). Commisioned by Don Sancho Sanchez de Ulloa, the first count of Monterrey, in the 15th century. It is 22.5 metres high with walls 3 metres thick. The chiselled emblems of individual masons are clearly visible on many of the huge granite blocks needed to build this outstanding monument.

In the distance are the remains of the 17th century watchtower

On a nearby hilltop are the remains of a 17th centruy watchtower, also part of the fortifications.

The parador of Verin

Today the castle stands guard over the Parador of Verin. It’s a great place to stop for coffee and cake or sample a glass of the local wine. During the summer months, visitors can rest in the gardens and look out at the grapes ripening on the slopes below.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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O Barco – A landlocked treasure

29/10/2014

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The town of O Barco (The Boat) is located in the province of Ourense in Galicia. It lies in the foothills of the Sierra de la Lastra mountain range, in a comarca (traditional region) known as Terra de Valdeorras. As the town is some 130 kilometres from the sea, it seems reasonable to assume that it derives its name from an ancient river crossing rather than any seagoing vessel.

The old town in O Barco

Two thousand years ago, rich mineral deposits brought Imperial Roman legions to the area: “There’s gold in them thar hills…” The gold deposits have long since been extracted. Today, the town’s prosperity is indelibly linked to a different mineral deposit: slate. Almost 90% of Europe’s natural roofing slate is produced in Spain, most of which originates in Galicia.

The river Sil quietly drifts by

O Barco’s second biggest export is wine. Valdeorras is a denominación de origen or D.O. (a regulatory classification system primarily for wine). The area is best known for producing fruity whites from the godello grape variety. Within the town, very little of O Barco’s medieval architecture remains. A pleasant promenade runs along the river and during the summer months there’s a lively café culture.

The palace of Florez - O Castro

Venture a little further afield and history and nature abound. Located in the nearby village of O Castro, and occupying a prominent position overlooking the town, is the 17th century manor house of Flórez. Built in 1630 for Don Pedro de Quiroga y Losada this medieval palace maintains many of its original features, furnishings, and works of art, and is currently operated as a hotel and spa.

Monasterio Xagoaza y la iglesia de San Miguel

North of O Castro is the Monasterio Xagoaza y la iglesia de San Miguel. The Monastery dates back to the 18th century and is currently owned by the Bodegas Godeval winery. The church is built in the Romanesque style of the 12th and 13th centuries. Carved above one door is the Maltese cross, symbol of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem or Knights Hospitaller.

The Roman bridge in the village of Entoma

About four kilometres east of O Barco, travelling along the valley of the river Sil, is the village of Éntoma. Focal point of the village is a small Roman bridge spanning the rio Galir. If only bridges could talk. Can you imagine the stories this one might tell: Roman legions, marauding Germanic Suevi, Visigoths, Moors, Napoleon’s French invaders, and me.

Olives ripening in the Serra de la Lastra

Today’s conquerors are modern-day pilgrims, walking the Camino Invierno de Santiago (Winter Route). The route passes through the village and across the bridge. The Sierra de la Lastra is famed for its Mediterranean fauna; highlighted in October by the abundance of ripening olives.

Cabralleda's medieval bridge

A little further east is the larger village of Cabralleda. At its entrance is a large viewing platform, featuring a mature olive tree. This lofty stage affords excellent views over the village, its 16th century seven arch bridge and the river Sil. During the War of Independence from the French, the abbot of Casoio, José Ramón Quiroga y Uria, led the local militia. Under his command they blew-up the bridge’s central arch, preventing the French troops from crossing the river.

The church of San Amaro - O Barco

Wherever you travel in Galicia, history, culture, and nature walk hand-in-hand. The next time you’re looking for a destination of distinction, why not visit this beautiful corner of Spain.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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Portomarin – Spain’s Abu Simbel

22/10/2014

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Portomarin is the most northerly town in the Ribeira Sacra: a region in Galicia famed for its excellent wine, historic heritage, and places of outstanding natural beauty.

Portomarin - A bustling little town

This bustling little town lies on the French route of the Way of St. James (El Camino Francés de Santiago). Throughout the year, pilgrims from all over the world arrive in search of overnight accommodation before moving on.

Saint James points the way

At first sight, the historic centre displays all the features you’d expect of a medieval town. The street leading to the main square is lined on both sides with ancient porticos. The square is dominated by the Iglesia de San Juan (Church of Saint John). This distinctive temple-fortress was built in the 13th century by the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem. It’s unusual in that it has design features of both a church and a castle.

Iglesia de San Juan

However; look a little closer and you’ll see that everything is not quite as it seems. The first thing you’ll notice is a complete absence of urban dereliction: not one crumbling building or abandoned home. The medieval porticos leading to the main square are perfectly symmetrical; as perpendicular today as the day they were built.

Perfect porticos

Another clue to the town’s recent history can be found in the name of the main square: Plaza Conde Fenosa. The title of Count of Fenosa (Conde de Fenosa) is a Spanish peerage created in 1955 by the late dictator Francisco Franco. The first Count of Fenosa, Pedro Barrie de la Maza, was a Galician businessman. Along with other business interests he owned one of the country’s leading energy suppliers, Fenosa. But perhaps the biggest clue to Portomarin’s recent history is inscribed on the stone blocks of the Iglesia de San Juan: a sequence of numbers which helped builders recreate this life-sized 3D jigsaw to its current location.

Each stone numbered

Despite appearances, the town of Portomarin is less than 60 years old. The original town developed around a Roman bridge which spanned the river Miño. In 1956 plans were unveiled to build a hydroelectric dam downstream at Belesar, threatening to submerge the town.

The river Miño

Preparations began in earnest to save its most important landmarks. A new site was chosen, several hundred metres above the existing town. Over the next six years every monument deemed of historic importance was moved, stone-by-stone, to its new location. Relocating Portomarin represents one of the largest architectural salvage operations ever undertaken in Spain.

Save by man

After a long, dry summer, remnants of the old town reappear as water levels recede. The medieval bridge that replaced the earlier Roman crossing can once again be used. Towering above it, the new concrete bridge reminds summer visitors of the weather to come.

Out with the old and in with the new

Portomarin is the Galician equivalent of Abu Simbel: a town of historic and architectural importance saved from the rising waters of the river Miño by the ingenuity and labours of man.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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Ruta del Vino – An unforgettable experience.

15/10/2014

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Many regions in Spain offer tourists the opportunity to follow a Ruta del Vino but only one will transport you through an extreme environment of jaw-dropping beauty.

1. All aboard

Not all Rutas del Vino, or wine routes, are the same. Some are self-guided tours going from one winery to the next; others provide you with a guide. Some take you through vineyards and others to places of interest; but they all have one thing in common: promoting Spanish wine.

2. The spectacular Sil canyon

Here in Galicia there are many such routes, one of which you will never forget. The route begins in the tiny village of Doade, high above the canyon of the river Sil in the province of Lugo.

3. Row upon row of vines

Guests are invited to board the road-going tourist train Aba Sacra. During the summer season it’s advisable to book. Tickets are available online from http://www.abasacra.com and depending on the time of year, cost from 12 to 14 euros for a standard ticket (concessionary tickets are available).

4. Bancada terraces raching for the sky

The bright-yellow train looks a little out of place as it departs the village. The road from Doade hugs the contours of the canyon as it descends towards the river. About halfway down it reaches the Soutochao outcrop. The train slows to walking pace before veering sharply to the right. From here, a narrow track falls steeply, twisting and turning as it winds its way through lush vineyards. The train’s carriages clunk together as the driver slowly and skilfully makes his way down the valley.

5. The Aba Sacra train

Within a hundred metres the track levels off and the train begins its long and winding ascent along the valley. Every so often the driver brings the train to a halt. Guests are encouraged to wander along the track and wonder at the landscape.

6. Steel tracks disappearing up the valley

The scenery is spectacular. Hundreds of metres below is the river Sil, gently meandering its way through the canyon. From there, row upon row of grapevines cling to the side of the canyon on narrow terraces or bancadas. Above are more vines, climbing towards the sky like a stairway to heaven.

7. Regina Viarum winery

So inaccessible are these vineyards that until recently all the harvested grapes were carried up and down the canyon by hand. Nowadays, the crates of grapes are lowered or raised on steel tracks: an idea borrowed from the Rhine valley in Germany.

8. Restaurant A Cantina in Doade

On its return to Doade, the train stops outside the restaurant A Cantina. The driver collects a plate of rosca (bread-like cake) and cheese, before driving to the Regina Viarum winery. After a guided tour, guests are invited to sample the delicious mencia red wine and nibble on rosca and local cheese. The perfect end to an unforgettable Ruta del Vino.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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Digital Exposure II – Summertime in Galicia: a photo blog

8/10/2014

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Have you ever wondered why so many Spaniards choose Galicia to spend their summer vacation? Imagine if you will; long, hot days, comfortably warm evenings, traffic-free highways, and outstanding natural beauty. With autumn just around the corner, it’s time to reflect on another wonderful summer in Galicia. Here are some of my favourite snaps of the summer. Why not leave a comment and tell me which your favourite is.

The carretera nacional 120 is the main arterial road passing through the area. I became so bored waiting for a car to pass, I took the photo anyway.

1. Stree-free driving along traffic-free highways

A summer stream meanders its way through the Galician countryside.

2. Golden reflections

One of the best ways to explore the river Sil is by boat. Our favourite departs from Os Chancis. It’s an intimate experience for up to 10 guests and includes an onboard wine tasting. Floating past vibrant vineyards; sipping the local wine – perfect.

3. River Cruising

Ribadavia is a beautifully preserved medieval town. Wandering through the streets feels like you’ve stepped back in time.

4. Strolling through the passageways of time

An ideal location to catch up on the local gossip.

5. The daily news

The changing shades of the river Sil as the sun descends in the western sky.

6. Fade to grey

Nine lives and forty winks: a day in the life of a Galician street cat.

7. Taking a catnap

One of my favourite cycling routes takes me along this shady lane.

8. Lighting the way

Patchy cloud provides the ideal conditions for exploring the picturesque town of Ribadavia in the province of Ourense.

9. Clounding the issue

The vineyards of the Zona de Amandi in the Ribeira Sacra rise hundreds of metres from the banks of the river. This valley is one of the most difficult places on earth to harvest grapes.

10. Sun bathing

For over 12 years we’ve driven through the town of Rodeiro on our way to and from the airport without giving it a second glance. When we finally decided to stop and take a look around, we stumbled across this charming town hall.

11. Rodeiro town hall

From Roman legions to French Legionaries, this idyllic landscape hides a dark history.

12. River diamonds

A typical Galician landscape: grapes ripen under the watchful eye of the Almighty.

13. Essence of summer

Evening vapour trails change from white to orange as the sun sets on another perfect day.

14. The journey home

In the spring of 1809, the bridge at Petin was the scene of a bloody battle between Napoleonic troops and the women of the village. Today the area is a little more peaceful.

15. Time span

A Cremello horse is nothing if not distinctive. This stunning example was the star of the Escairon horse fiesta.

16. Ride a white horse

The castle in the town of Castro Caldelas commands outstanding views over the surrounding area

17. Keep sake

One of my favourite views of the Ribeira Sacra: the viewing point at Os Chancis. The distant mountains rise over 1000 metres from the river and provide the perfect natural platform from which to generate clean, renewable energy.

18. Calm and composed

If you missed springtime in Galicia, tick here.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

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