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Camino Secrets - Part 7

29/1/2014

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Most people’s knowledge of the Camino de Santiago or Way of St. James is limited to the Camino
Francés: an arduous trek from the French border to the city of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. However; the routes to Santiago are as varied as the countryside they pass through: take the Via de la Plata (Silver Route) for example. 

The starting point of this pilgrimage is the southern city of Seville in Andalusia. From there it passes through Zafra, Mérida, Cáceres, and Salamanca on its way north. At the city of Zamora, pilgrims have a
choice, they can continue northward to Astorga or head northwest through northern Portugal; re-entering Spain near the town of Verin. 
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Verin forms the crossroad of three camino routes: Caminho Portugués de la Via de la Plata, Caminho Português do Interior, and an alternative route along the Camino Sanabrés. It’s also one of the focal points of our seventh tour to discover more of the camino’s secrets.

Once again our day began at the luxury farmhouse, Campo Verde in the sleepy village of Vilatan. After making our way to the main road we turned right and headed towards Chantada. From there we followed the N-540 and N-525 into Ourense. 

We left Ourense and headed out along the A-52 in the direction of Madrid. This scenic motorway slices its way through the Galician countryside, climbing high into the mountains. After 54 km the highway begins its descent towards the historic town of Verin.
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With over ten kilometres still to drive, the impressive fortifications of the castle of Monterrei were clearly
visible: perched on a hilltop overlooking the town and surrounding countryside. The castle is the largest hilltop fortress in Galicia and during the Middle Ages was the seat of the lineage of the Dukes of Alba. Once in the town centre we followed signs for the Parador. A narrow road winds its way through
vineyards as we climbed the hillside to this striking monument. 

The castle is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 11 am until 2 pm and again in the afternoon from 5 pm
until 8 pm. Like many tourist sites in Galicia this historic monument and museum are free to enter. The original fortifications were formed by three walled enclosures, all of which can be seen today. The most interesting of these is the hilltop complex which includes; the Renaissance Palace, the 15th century Torre del Homenaje (Homage Tower), the Torre de las Damas (Tower of the Ladies), the remains of the Pilgrims’ Hospital, and the Gothic Church of Santa Maria. Most of these buildings are credited to Sancho
Sánchez de Ulloa, first Count of Monterrei in the 15th century. 
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The regularity of guided tours is rather hit and miss; but if you’re lucky enough to join one, the guides do their best to cover the most interesting parts of the narrative in English. The museum has a number of noteworthy exhibits but for me, the highlight of the castle was the tower. From ground level the climb was difficult and steep. As we neared the top the stairs became very narrow, the ceilings extremely low, and the light particularly dim; but the views from the top over the surrounding area are spectacular. It wasn’t until we made our way down that I noticed the masons marks, chiselled into the huge stone blocks; a feature worth looking out for.  
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Opposite the castle is the Parador of Verin (32600, Verin, Ourense +34 902 54 79 79). Despite its appearance, it’s a contemporary building built in the style of a Galician pazo or manor house. It’s also the
perfect location to stop for lunch. For fish lovers I can highly recommend the Merluza a la Gallega: succulent pieces of hake cooked in a stew with potatoes, onions and garlic; and for dessert why not try the pancakes (filloas), delicious with chocolate ice cream. To accompany our lunch we ordered a bottle
of Viña Verino from the Gargalo winery (Rua do Castelo 59, 32619, Verin, Ourense +34 988 590 203). Looking out through the restaurant window we could see the grapes ripening on the slopes below the 
castle.

After lunch we headed off to our final stop on the tour, Allariz. As we headed back along the A-52 towards Ourense we caught our first glimpse of the Real Monesterio de Santa Clara (Royal Monastery of
St. Claire). Only from such a distance can the size and majesty of this medieval monastery be appreciated. It dates back to 1268 when Queen Violante, wife of Alfonso X ordered its construction.
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Central to the town is the plaza mayor: an unsurfaced and disproportionately large open square. A tree lined avenue runs from an ornamental fountain across the plaza mayor to the church of San Benito. A network of cobbled streets, lined with quaint cottages, runs through the town linking a number of charming old churches. Without doubt, Allariz must be one of the most picturesque towns in the province of Ourense: a rewarding way to finish our drive along this part of the camino.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs
 
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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain
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Camino Secrets - Part 6

22/1/2014

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Throughout its history the most popular routes of the Camino de Santiago have remained relatively unchanged; others fade in and out of popularity with the passage of time. One of these less popular routes takes pilgrims from A Gudiña on the Camino Sanabrés to A Rúa on the Camino de Invierno. The trail passes through the town of Viana do Bolo on its way to El Santuario de la Virgen de las Ermidas (The Sanctuary of the Virgin Mary)

It may well be an overused cliché, but this day trip is truly, ‘off the beaten track’ but for those who dare, the rewards are worth the effort. Once again, the starting point for our adventure was the luxury farmhouse Campo Verde, nestled cosily in the village of Vilatan. 
 
It was a bright sunny morning as we crept slowly along the narrow village lanes and on to the main
road heading towards the town of Monforte de Lemos: beating heart of the Ribeira Sacra wine growing region. From here we joined the N120 west bound, following signs for Ponferrada. Within 40 minutes we had arrived at our first destination, A Rúa.
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This sleepy town in the province of Ourense is home to some of the best wines in Spain: indeed, in 2011 the renowned US wine critic Robert M. Parker catalogued wines from A Rúa as elite in the world of wines. One of my personal favourite is Pingadel (Godello) a fresh and fragrant white wine from the Virgin de las Viñas Bodgea Coop (Campo Grande 97, 32350 A Rúa, Ourense, +34 988 310 607).

Dominating the town is a large reservoir, encoro de San Martiño, formed by the dam of the same name.
A wide promenade runs along its western edge, ending at a lakeside café. It’s the perfect place to take a break and soak up the magnificent scenery; if it’s not too early, why not try a glass of Pingadel.

Having finished our refreshments we continued on, heading south along the OU-533 for about 14km. The road heads into the mountains, twisting and turning through acres of vineyards. Keep an eye out for
signposts to the sanctuary or you’ll miss this hidden treasure and drive straight past.
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El Santuario de la Virgen de las Ermidas, is open everyday from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m. and takes its name from a sacred artefact discovered in the area. Legend has it that a group of herdsmen, from the nearby town of O Bolo, were drawn to the entrance of a hidden cave by their cattle. Inside they found a statue of the Virgin Mary holding her newborn child. A small shrine was built to house the image.

Construction of the magnificent building seen today began in the 17th century and was the result of a remarkable event. In 1624 the bishop of Astorga, Don Alonso Messia of Tovar, was visiting parishioners in the area when he became gravely ill. Physicians from Monforte de Lenos were called to attend; their prognosis was grave. Whilst lying on his deathbed the bishop experienced an apparition of the Virgin Mary. Miraculously he recovered, discovering several days later that the ancient statue of the Virgin Mary was identical to his apparition. Immediately he ordered the construction of a sanctuary worthy of such a divine miracle.

The cool interior of the church is dark and sombre; and smaller than you might expect. Hanging from the ceiling, above the central aisle, you’ll find a model of a Spanish galleon. It was given to the church by Pedro Centro, following yet another miracle. On the 23rd September 1702 Pedro, a native of San Juan de la cuestas de Sanabria, was thrown overboard while serving in the Spanish navy. Unable to swim, he trod water for 3 hours before another vessel was able to save him. These types of ex-vetos are more commonly seen in coastal churches.

But to my mind, the most remarkable aspect of this church lies beyond the railings that separate the nave from the apse and transepts. Mounted on the wall between the last two rows of pews you’ll find a light switch. Flick it on and prepare to be amazed. Looking like a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean, the apse glistens with precious treasure: gold and silver adorn the altar and beautiful artwork hangs on the walls. With lunchtime approaching we left the sanctuary and continued south to the town of Viana do Bolo.
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At first glance Viana do Bolo is an unremarkable little town, lacking some TLC; but dig a little deeper and you’ll find a charming inland community with a rich history and some remarkable vantage points from which to view the surrounding countryside. It also boasts one of the best restaurants in the area: A Nosa Casa (Rúa Libertade, 2 – bajo, Viano do Bolo, Ourense, 32550, +34 988 329 317).

Galician beef is as revered in Spain as Aberdeen Angus is in the UK; and the best fillet steak (solomillo
de tenera
) I have ever eaten in Spain was served here: high praise indeed but fully justified. Having satisfied our hunger it was time to walk it off. Opposite the restaurant is the entrance to the Plaza Mayor. The square has a very French feel to it. We walked through the plaza and joined a narrow street which heads up towards the torre (tower).

At the fork in the road we turned left and continued on to a small, roadside park. From here the views across the reservoir are stunning, particularly in late spring. The road bridge crossing the water marks the point where the Rio Bibei, to the left, merges with the Rio Camba, on the right. After taking in the sight we continued onward and upward, past the church and up some stone steps to the torre.

The present torre dates back to the 15th century and was built on the site of an earlier tower constructed around 1180 by King Fernando II of Leon. Throughout thecenturies it’s had many different uses, even doubling as a prison during the Spanish Civil War. Today the tower is used as a museum displaying cultural and artistic items specific to the area. We ambled our way back down the narrow lanes and began our return journey to A Rúa. The next point of interest on our tour was La Cruz de Santa Cruz. 
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Perched on top of a hill, overlooking the village of Santa Cruz and the surrounding countryside is an eight metre tall, concrete cross. The inhabitants of Santa Cruz finished its construction in 1990, officially opening it to the public on 30thAugust that year. For villager Manuel Gonzalez Rodriguez, it was the realisation of a childhood dream. 

A dirt track leads to the entrance of this unusual landmark; as we approached a man appeared out of
nowhere as if by magic. He introduced himself as Manuel and enthusiastically greeted us to his monument. Entrance is free and the attraction never closes. The climb to the top is quite steep and uneven but the outstanding views are well worth the exertion. The final stop on this tour was Torre Castelo do O Bolo (The castle and tower of O Bolo) just a short drive from Santa Cruz. 
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The town of O Bolo first appears in Roman texts around the 1st century AD. The history of the medieval castle is less clear. It’s thought that either Queen Urraca (1078 – 1126), daughter of Alfonso VI of Leon, or her daughter, Sancha Raimundez (c. 1095/1102 - 1159) was responsible for its construction. In the 12th and 13th century, title of the castle rested with the Counts of Lemos. In the 15th century, during the Irmandiños revolts (peasant uprisings) the castle was destroyed only to be rebuilt in the 16th century under the patronage of Juan Francisco Pimentel, Count of Benavente.
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By the 18th century both the castle and torre had fallen into disrepair. In more modern times the castle found many uses including a primary school and a jail; but in 1999, under the supervision of the town council, they were restored and now form an interesting, interactive museum. I couldn’t resist the chance to rollback the years and enjoy a boyhood fantasy: dressing up as a heavily armed Spanish knight perched atop my wooden stallion. The castle is accessible throughout the week but the tower and museum are only open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 4 p.m. until 8 p.m.
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The views from the roof of the torre are amazing but for bird lovers there’s an even more impressive site on the climb there. During June and July a pair of Kestrels return every year to the torre to nest in the exact same arrow loop (narrow wall opening). A peephole in a blackened window allows visitors to get within inches of this incredible sight: hungry chicks feeding from the beaks of their parents
 
The drive home passed quickly and before long we were sitting in the garden, marvelling at the evening sky as the colour changed from blue to red. We recounted the day’s events and looked forward to our next foray into the Galician countryside.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain
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Thursday Freebie

16/1/2014

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Book Lovers Thursday Freebie

My first published book is

FREE Today

on Amazon

Hit the download button to visit your national store and download your copy straight away.
DOWNLOAD
Its success is in your hands - if you enjoy the book please tell a friend
Thank you
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Camino Secrets - Part 5

15/1/2014

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Today’s officially recognised camino routes represent a small proportion of the pathways and tracks used by pilgrims during the latter half of the Middle Ages. Many of these minor trails emerged out of necessity, the alternative winter route being one.

The official Camino de Invierno (Winter Route) begins in Ponferrada and passes through the town of
Quiroga on its way to Santiago de Compostela. Attacks along the camino were a real danger to pilgrims
and although the area around Quiroga was protected by Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, their presence suggests a heightened threat on this part of the trail. 
 
To avoid Quiroga, some pilgrims crossed the river Sil in the town of A Rúa and headed into the mountains, passing through Puebla de Trives and on to Castro Caldelas. From here the road descends back to the river Sil where a large wooden bridge, considered one of the wonders of Galicia in the Middles Ages, crossed the river near the village of Paradela. After another steep climb, to the village of
Doade, pilgrims would rejoin the Camino Invierno (winter route) in the town of Monforte de Lemos.
The detour was long and arduous, reaffirming the mortal perils that awaited pilgrims along the main route.
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Our fifth day of exploration followed ancient trails along the Canyon of the river Sil in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra wine growing region. Once again, our starting point was the luxury farmhouse rental Campo Verde, in the village of Vilatan. We started out by heading to Monforte de Lemos and then followed signs to Doade. As we entered the village, there was a sign on the left pointing to the Miradoiro Pena de Castelo.

The Cañón de Sil is littered with miradors (viewing points); but in my opinion, Pena de Castelo is the most stunning. Be sure to take your camera: you wouldn’t want to miss this photo opportunity.
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The walk to the mirador is along a well-made track; shaded in some areas by pine forests and natural woodland. Perched alongside the viewing point is a small chapel dedicated to San Mauro. The view of the canyon is breathtaking: the river Sil snakes through the gorge like a giant anaconda and terraced vineyards rise over 1000 metres from its banks. To visit Galicia and not see this spectacular landscape would be like visiting Egypt and missing the pyramids.

From the village of Doade we drove down the steep valley side, twisting and turning through steps of terraced vineyards to the river’s edge. The medieval wooden bridge of Ponte Paradela has long since gone, replaced by a modern crossing. Before continuing, why not stop for refreshments at the Club Nautico de Doade. A long, riverside terrace provides beautiful views of the river and spectacular aerial displays from House Martins nesting under the bridge.

After quenching our thirst we continued on to Castro Caldelas. The village is set on a natural outcrop overlooking the surrounding area. The Castle and medieval village were declared a historic and artistic site in 1998. Step back in time and wander through the narrow streets. Just past the castle you’ll find the Centro Comarcal (Information Centre). There are a number of exhibitions including an interactive 3D map of the whole area: it’s certainly worth a visit. The castle is open from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m. and from 4 p.m.
until 7 p.m. You’ll need a head for heights; guardrails were not part of medieval thinking, but the views from the ramparts are magnificent.
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The castle was constructed by Pedro Fernández de Castro between 1336 and 1343. Nearby, numerous
battles were fought to gain control over the regions' lands. Its walls display numerous coats of arms indicating its chequered past. Around the main entrance there are the coats of arms of the Osorio (two wolves), the Castro (six circular forms), the Kingdom of León (a rampant lion) and the Kingdom of Castile (a castle): and on the clock tower an inscription of the Greek letter tau is a symbol associated with the Order of the Knights Templar. 

The next stop on our journey took us to Montederramo and the Santa Maria Monastery. Arrangements for viewing the monastery are quite unique. Opposite the church, to the right of the fountain, you’ll see a bright-yellow sign with the name Correos (Post Office) on it. This nondescript building also doubles as the local ayuntamiento (town hall). To view the monastery, ask at the post office counter; if it’s closed pop up to the first floor and ask there. Don’t let this little eccentricity put you off: we found everyone really helpful and more than willing to show us their church
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The original monastery dates back to the 11th century but was rebuilt and extended in the 16th and 17th centuries. The church is built in the Herreriano style in the shape of a Latin cross with three naves crowned with ribbed vaults. On the upper floor of the church you’ll find the renovated choir stalls: the number of seats reflecting its importance. The high alter has also been painstakingly restored: carved from chestnut, it is illuminated with painted bible scenes. It’s here, in the monastery’s founding documents, that the name Ribeira Sacra (Riboyra Sacrata) first appears.

By the end of the 17th century it had become an education centre for abbots and monks and remained so until the church cloisters were sold in 1835. There are two cloisters, both of which are still in private ownership. The first, called Reglar, is of late Gothic design with an impressive ribbed vault. Today it is used as a school for local children. The second, named Hospederia, is of Spanish Renaissance design; decorated with medallions and coats of arms. Today it houses private apartments and the restaurant Casa Elvira (Praza 20, Montederramo, 32750 Ourense +34 988 292 019)

After lunch at Casa Elvira, we left Motenderramo and followed signs for Parada de Sil and onward to Mosteiro de Sta. Cristina (Santa Cristina Monastery). Don’t let the steep gradient deter you from visiting; this Benedictine monastery is one of the area’s earliest, dating back to the 10th century. Its prominence grew throughout the Middle Ages and in the 16th century it became a priory of Santo Estevo de Ribas
Sil.
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The church is one of the best examples of Galician Romanesque style of the late 12thand early 13th centuries. Once again it’s built along the Latin cross design with three semicircular naves. The main
façade features a rose window. Unfortunately the church remains locked for all but special occasions; if you’re lucky enough to visit when it is open, you’ll have the opportunity to admire the Renaissance frescos.

What remains of the rest of the monastery is accessed through a stone archway featuring sculptured symbols and ornaments. Only two of the cloister’s arcades remain. These can be accessed by climbing the stone steps in the far corner. The wooden floors are quite new and provide fantastic views of the river below.

To continue on we retraced our steps and followed signs to Mosteiro de Santo Estevo, the final stop on today’s tour. As we approached, we caught glimpses of the monastery’s red tiled roof through the thick woodland. Follow the road to its end where you’ll find the car park.
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The monastery dates back to the 10th century, although some scholars believe it is built on the site of an earlier church, San Martin de Dumio between 550 and 555. Whatever its origins, by the 18th century it had become the single most important monastery in the region.

The church has a Romanesque base with later, gothic style additions; these include the basilica, consisting of three naves and semicircular apses. The monastery is organised around three cloisters which are Romanesque, gothic, and renaissance in design. The facade is baroque and was built in the 18th century.

In 1835 the Catholic Church sold the property to a private individual. After this the building fell into decline until, in 1923, the monastery was declared a historic and artistic site. Today, this majestic
building is part of the Parador Group of hotels. 
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Before heading back, to a relaxing evening at Campo Verde, why not rest for a while in the hotel bar, its contemporary glass frontage looks out over the three historic cloisters; and if you’re looking for a suggestion, their hot chocolate is to die for.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

*************************************************************************

To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain
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Camino Secrets - Part 4

8/1/2014

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Without leaving mainland Spain, the region of Galicia is as far from the tourist-packed Costas of the Mediterranean as it’s possible to be. People choosing to holiday here are looking for more than sun and sangria: Galicia has a rich history and strong culture. To fully appreciate this diverse region, finding a base in a central location is an important factor. 

“Campo Verde is ideally located for those seeking the best of both worlds - rural tranquillity and urban amenities.
Excellent road communications make it easy to explore all the major tourist areas in Galicia and Northern Portugal.”

  
Today’s excursion will test this claim. 
 
Even in the height of summer, touring in Galicia and Northern Portugal is a driver’s dream – stress-free motoring on traffic-free highways.

Once again our tour began from Campo Verde, our luxury farmhouse rental in the sleepy village of Vilatan. After joining the main road we headed towards Ourense, capital city of the only landlocked province in Galicia. Climbing out of Ourense we joined the A52, (Autovia de Rias Baixas) following signs to Vigo. The road climbs high into the mountains, affording brief glimpses of the great river Miño as it snakes its way silently towards the Atlantic. It’s a spectacular drive on silky-smooth tarmac.

At Ribadavia we exited the motorway and followed signs to Portugal and the market town of Melgaço. Our route from Spain into Portugal followed the Camiño Xacobeo Miñoto-Ribeiro, a lesser known tributary route of the Camino de Santiago from Portugal into Spain. This stretch of road winds its way through ancient forests, twisting and turning as it hugs the contours of the river valley. Eventually we reached the small market town of Melgaço.
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Once a year, on the last weekend in April, the population of this sleepy, mountain town mushrooms in size. Melgaço is at the heart of the Alvarinho wine growing region and as such hosts the annual Alvarinho wine fiesta. Tens of thousands flock here from both sides of the border to taste this deliciously crisp and fruity white wine. One of my personal favourites is Quinta de Melgaço.

For the rest of the year, Melgaço reverts back to it Medieval roots, centered on a 12thcentury castle and
tower. Narrow streets, lined with picturesque cottages, wind their way through the old town leading to the castle. The tower, now a museum, affords visitors a panoramic view of the town and the surrounding countryside and for an admission fee of one euro, is well worth a visit.

There are two other museums of note: the Solar do Alvarinho (wine museum) where visitors can sample different Alvarinho wines and the Museu de Cinema de Melgaço (museum of cinema): established by the French film critic Jean Loup Passek, he gifted his extensive collection of cinematic objects to the
municipality.

Depending on the time, you may wish to stop for lunch, if so I can highly recommend Restaurante Chafarix, (Praça Amadeu Abilio Lopes, Melgaço +351 251 403 400). They serve an extensive range of traditional Portuguese dishes. For lovers of a fine steak, why not try contrafilé (tenderloin of beef) accompanied with a glass Pomares, a delicious red wine from the Douro valley.

As tempting it was to stay for lunch, we decided to continue on to the next stop on today’s tour; the town of Monçāo. Its population has been in decline since the early 1960’s, a fact reflected in some of the towns more neglected properties. It’s not to everyone’s taste, but I love the contrast between pristine renovations and crumbling wrecks, it’s so typical of many Portuguese towns.
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Monçāo sits on a hillside overlooking the river Miño. The views, both upstream and down, are beautiful. It also has the distinction of lying roughly equidistant between Melgaço, on the Camiño Xacobeo Miñoto-Ribeiro, and Valença on the Camino Portugués. Travellers on the latter have the option to continue on the Camino Portugués to Santiago de Compostela or travel upstream along the river Miño and join the Camiño Xacobeo Miñoto-Ribeiro into Ribadavia and on to Santiago that way.

Wandering around the old town will undoubtedly build up an appetite and I know just the place to silence a rumbling stomach. Pizzaria Don Genaro (Rua Doutor Jośe Luis Dias, 4950-473 Monçāo +351
251 652 487). There are other, more traditional restaurants in the town; but if you enjoy a great pizza, this is the place to eat; and the selection of desserts is mouthwatering. The house vino verde is fresh, light, and crisp: an excellent accompaniment to pizza or pasta. 

Having satisfied our hunger we moved on to our final destination of the day, the fortress town of Valença: last stop along the Camino Portugués before crossing the river Miño into Spain.
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Every Wednesday, hundreds of nomadic traders descend on this Portuguese border town to sell their wares at a huge open-air market. From the hill overlooking the market, the covered stalls look like an enormous Bedouin camp; on bright sunny days, this vast expanse of tethered white tarpaulins comes
alive as it shimmers in the breeze.

However; Valença has much more to offer visitors than a large market. The town developed around the Roman road connecting Braga with Tui. Confirmation of this can be seen today in the Roman milestone marking a distance of 42 miles (XLII) from Braga. Originally named Contrasta, (meaning, ‘village opposed to another’ in this case Tui) it was renamed Valença in the 13th century by King Alfonso III. Its main attraction is a 14th century hilltop fortress, staring across the river Miño at the town of Tui in Galicia. Due to its location, and military significance, the fortress has seen a great deal of action: most recently during the Napoleonic invasion in the 19th century. 

Today the fortress is a thriving tourist attraction: a bustling, busy town packed with shops and restaurants. Within its walls are a number of interesting historical monuments including several churches. The Iglesia de Santa María de los Ángeles (Church of Saint Mary) dates back to the 13th century and is well worth a visit.

My advice would be to drive into the castle and park within its walls. Driving through the imposing, yet narrow, medieval gateway is a challenging and interesting experience; some might go as far as to say hair-raising.
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Before long it was time to head back home. Rather than retrace our steps, we drove down to the river and crossed the old international bridge. Built in 1879, this iron bridge was a collaboration between Spain and Portugal. After crossing the bridge turn right and follow the signs for Salvaterra. The road follows the course the river Miño upstream, meandering through vineyards of Albariño grapes. From Salvaterra there are signs for the A52 leading back to Ourense. 

Having treated ourselves to a bottle of Quinta de Melgaço Alvarinho earlier in the day, I popped the cork later that evening and we settled down to a well earned rest.  
 
Copyright © 2009 Craig Briggs

 *************************************************************************

To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 
 
Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain
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