Two days remain of our winter break on the Costa del Sol. Once again we’ve had a wonderful time: the weather has been kind; family and friends have come and gone. As usual I’ve been busy snapping away and with scenery like this, it’s easy to create memorable impressions.
 
Have a look and tell me which are your three favourite snaps – there are 25 to choose from.

In this, the final part of my series Camino Secrets, I will be unashamedly extolling the virtues of a vacation in Galicia; and in particular a stay at our luxury farmhouse rental, Campo Verde.

If I had to describe this remote region, in the northwest corner of Spain, in just three words it would be; 

‘Galicia shatters preconceptions’.

People’s biggest misconception is the weather. It would be foolish of me to say that it doesn’t rain in Galicia, because it does. The annual rainfall here is roughly the same as in the UK, however; from May through to October, Galicia is as hot as many other parts of Spain and hotter than some. You don’t have to be a gardener to know that water plus sunlight equals life; and Galicia is teeming with it. 

One of our guests commented, ‘I’ve never seen so many trees’.

Galicia has something for everyone but could never be described as, ‘All Inclusive’. It’s a magical land steeped in history and rich in culture, where a sense of adventure and willingness to explore will reap rewards beyond your wildest dreams; but seeing is believing, take this virtual tour and let your imagination drift into a forgotten world.  

Having made the decision to enter the holiday rental market, we had three clear objectives; choose the best location, provide the most desirable property, and offer a friendly and professional service.

When choosing the location of our luxury farmhouse rental, providing quick and easy access to Galicia’s excellent road network was an important consideration. Campo Verde is situated in the centre of Galicia in the quiet village of Vilatan; and although it’s less than one kilometre from a major link road, the only noise you’ll hear is the chirping of cicadas and the relaxing sounds of nature. Within minutes, guests can be en route to all Galicia’s major tourist centres. Even in the middle of summer, driving in Galicia is a stress-free experience along traffic-free highways.

Galicia has more than its fair share of crumbling ruins but finding the right one for us proved more difficult than we’d expected. Eventually we came across Campo Verde and immediately knew that this was the home of dreams. With painstaking patience, and using local craftsmen, we recreated a traditional Galician farmhouse: saving many original features whilst sympathetically incorporating all the luxuries of modern living. Today, Campo Verde is a luxury retreat that more than lives up to its billing
of, ‘Quality accommodation for the discerning traveller’. Take this virtual tour and find out for yourself.

Our third objective was the easiest to achieve: a friendly and professional service. From the minute we receive an enquiry, to the morning guests depart, we’re never more than a phone call away. We pride ourselves on providing the best possible holiday experience: from a free, welcome grocery starter pack to the exclusive self-drive tour guide and restaurant guide; but don’t take my word for it, check out these guest comments.  

If you’ve never experienced Galicia then don’t delay, book today; and if you have, then perhaps it’s
time to return.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

For people with health issues, or those on a tight schedule, walking the Camino de Santiago is not always practical or possible. Touring by car is not only a great alternative but provides unique opportunities for interesting and lengthy detours. As if to emphasise this point, our next tour turned a 100 metre bridge crossing into a 65 kilometre diversion that introduced us to some of the most stunning scenery in Galicia.

As usual our day began in the quiet village of Vilatan, location of our luxury rural retreat Campo Verde. Having driven through the village we joined the CG2.1 (LU-533) heading in the direction of Chantada. After five kilometres the road crosses the river Miño on a long road bridge, suspended above the valley on tall concrete pillars. Immediately before crossing the bridge we turned left. A narrow lane, shaded from the morning sunlight by ancient chestnut trees, leads down to the riverbank. 
 
We followed the course of the river for a further three kilometres where we entered the village of
Belesar. On the right, nestled into the riverbank, is the restaurant Abaceria O Batuxo. The magical
scenery from this peaceful riverside eatery provided us with the perfect excuse to take our first refreshment break of the day.

The restaurant takes its name from the flat bottomed boats once used to cross the river, carrying
anything from grapes to livestock. Today it provides patrons with the perfect view of Belesar Bridge, the only river Miño crossing along the Camino Invierno (Winter Route). We ordered refreshments and soaked up the stunning scenery. From the dark cool waters of the river, terraced vineyards rise hundreds of feet following the contours of the steep river valley. Ghostly reflections of colourfully painted village houses shimmer in the still water. 

Suitably refreshed we continued on. The bridge at Belesar was the starting point of our detour. Rather
than crossing we drove straight past, following the course of the river. The photo opportunities along this narrow winding road are endless as it meanders its way downstream through small vineyards, roadside orchards, and pine forests. Eventually the road begins its steep ascent up the valley towards the
village of Fion. Just outside the village was the next stop on our tour, Ecomuseo de Arxeriz. 

The museum is housed in a renovated stately home or Pazo. A stroll through the grounds gives a unique insight into the privileged lives of the Spanish aristocracy. It’s open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, 11 a.m.
until 2 p.m. with regular guided tours that are usually available in English.

The museum is split into three sections; the history of the Ribeira Sacra region, the process and commerce of viniculture, and the constantly changing story of the river Miño. After the guided tour we wandered around the beautifully manicured gardens, admiring the craftsmanship of the stone terracing and garden walls. The stonemason, Alfonso, also built the garden walls at Campo Verde.

Lunchtime was quickly approaching: a fact reinforced by my rumbling stomach. Without delay we
continued on, following signs for Ferreira. From there we joined the N-120 in the direction of Ourense. The road descends steeply, careering down the valley side; ending at the village of Os Peares. It’s here that two great rivers, the Miño, and the Sil converge. It’s also home to the restaurant Acea do Bubal. This converted watermill and chocolate factory serves an excellent menu del dia in a tranquil riverside setting.

By far the most interesting way to reach the restaurant is by walking across the railway bridge. On entering the village a road bridge crosses the river Sil. Immediately after this we parked the car in the shade of several plane trees. From here, steps lead down to the railway bridge and the pedestrian
walkway. Even in the middle of summer, the air is fresh and cool as the river Miño races past beneath.

With our hunger satisfied, we made our way back to the car and continued on. After less than two kilometres we turned left and drove across the Os Peares dam. From here we turned right, following signs for Chantada along the LU-P-1801. The road hugs the contours of the valley, twisting and turning as we headed upstream. After about 12 kilometres we pulled into the roadside verge to feast on this amazing landscape. From here we could clearly see the river island: an unusual feature formed as the water level rose following the completion of the Os Peares dam in 1955.

We continued on for another 14 kilometres, passing through tiny hamlets and small villages until we
saw a signpost directing us back to Belesar. We’d almost come full circle, turning our 100 metre bridge crossing into a day-long adventure. In the village of Lincora we turned left and began our very steep descent back towards the bridge in Belesar. About halfway down the valley is the restaurant and winery Meson e Adega do Veiga. Surrounded by terraced vineyards, it’s a great place to stop and sample the local wines: I can particularly recommend the 2006 Mencia, if there’s any left.

One glass of this fine, fruity wine is never enough. Having bought a couple of bottles we headed for home. The drive back to Campo Verde took about ten minutes: not too long to wait for another glass.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

In part 7 of my series, Camino Secrets, our excursion to Verin and Allariz took us through Ourense: provincial capital of the only landlocked province in Galicia; and an important stopover on the Camino Sanabrés. On our next adventure we decided to take a closer look at this major inland city. 

As usual our day began in the village of Vilatan, in the south of Lugo province. From there we sped off in the direction of Chantada before joining the N-540; following signs for Ourense. After ten kilometres we reached the village of A Barrela where we turned right, heading deeper into the Galician countryside along winding country roads. Within 20 minutes we were trundling through the deserted lanes of Oseira, our first stop of the day.

Situated in the heart of this rural Spanish village is the imposing Monastery of Santa Maria de Oseira.The monastery, whose origins can be traced back to 1137, is home to several Trappist monks: a branch of the Order of Cistercians. Guided tours run hourly, Monday to Saturday from 10 until 12 in the morning and 3:30 through to 5:30 in the afternoon. As this is a working monastery access is restricted but the splendid architectural features in the public areas are well worth the visit. 

Before continuing on we decided to stop for a coffee at the village café/bar Escudo: a typically Galician establishment. Suitably refreshed, we resumed our journey. Rather than double back on ourselves we drove through the village, following signs to Cea. Narrow country lanes wind there way through rolling hills and picturesque countryside. Before too long we reached the N-525: main road between Ourense and Santiago de Compostela.

The city of Ourense is divided by the river Miño and joined together by no fewer than six bridges: three road bridges, two pedestrian bridges and a railway bridge. Two further foot bridges, on the outskirts of the city, link a riverside promenade that runs for over 14 kilometres along both riverbanks. This popular promenade is a great place to stretch your legs and enjoy the river scenery; but for the best river views, my suggestion would be the walkway around the Puente del Milenio (Millennium Bridge).

Designed by Alvaro Varela de Ugarte and completed in 2001, this dynamic suspension bridge carries four lanes of traffic across the river. It marries contemporary design with modern engineering to produce an inescapable city landmark. Suspended from the structure, like a dormant rollercoaster, is a hammock shaped walkway. 

We accessed the walkway from the roadside and began our steep descent. The noise of city traffic faded as we descended below the level of the road, replaced by the gushing water of the river Miño: a cool breeze swept through my hair as the water rushed past, just metres below. The climb to the top of the suspension tower was long and steep, and almost took my breath away. Thankfully it didn’t; that privilege was saved for the views.

Upstream I had a clear view of the Puente Romano (Roman Bridge), the history of which can be traced back to the 1st century. Downstream, the fast flowing river rushed past the ancient thermal spas, renowned for their healing properties; surrounding this is a modern urban skyline set against a backdrop
of forested mountains and highland pastures.

The old town of Ourense is a little harder to find. From the Millennium Bridge we walked along Av. Prado de Cela and followed Rúa Progreso for about a kilometre until we reached the square Praza Bispo Césáreo. Here we turned left, walked through the square before entering Praza Maior in the heart of the old town. By now we’d built up quite a thirst so we pulled up a chair at one of the many café/bars lining the square and ordered a cool beer: 1906 is my favourite, brewed in Galicia by Estrella; but a word of advice, if you’re the driver avoid the 1906 Red Vintage: it’s 8% proof.

We were tempted to stay for lunch, enticed by the large number of restaurants and wide choice of cuisine but I had other plans. We left Ourense, following the course of the river Miño along the N-120 towards Monforte de Lemos. At Os Peares the road begins its long and twisting climb out of the valley. The scenery is spectacular: forested slopes of ancient chestnuts, mirrored in the dark water of the river Miño as it snakes through the valley below.

The final stop on our tour was the village of Ferriera de Pantón. Opposite the town hall is the restaurant O Mosteiro (Comandante Cruz Puente 0rdax, nº 1, 27430 Pantón, Lugo +34 982456462). They serve a great value menu del dia (menu of the day). The owners serve up a traditional, home-cooked three course lunch, including wine and coffee; all for a miserly nine euros. My personal favourite is Merluza a la plancha (grilled steaks of hake) served with chips and a fresh green salad. In my opinion, the owner Anna cooks the perfect grilled hake: virgin white and deliciously moist. 

The drive back to our luxury farmhouse rental Campo Verde was short, giving us plenty of time to relax in the warm sunshine and enjoy a late afternoon snooze.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook