Saturday afternoon is always a great time to visit our nearest town, Monforte de Lemos. Unlike most town centres across the UK, the only retail activity comes from national supermarket chains and cheap Chinese bazaars. I can’t think of a better time to take the wife into town. Shop windows and locked doors; a Yorkshireman’s dream.

It took some getting used to after the hustle and bustle of Huddersfield’s high streets. However; like many lifestyle changes associated with migrating to a foreign country, once we’d made the adjustment the benefits far outweighed the drawbacks and I’m not just talking about the savings. Take last Saturday for example.

In terms of the weather, we hadn’t had the best spring week ever but on Saturday afternoon the clouds parted and bright sunshine lit up the countryside.

‘Do you fancy a stroll along the river in Monforte?’ I asked.

I’d wanted to take a few snaps of the town centre Parador and for one reason or another hadn’t got round to it. Besides which, our hound Slawit would be pestering for her afternoon stroll anytime soon. So that was that; and off we went.

Within ten minutes of leaving home we were pulling up next to the river. During the week this stretch of road becomes primetime parking but not at the weekend. We parked opposite the new pedestrian bridge: an attractive piece of modern architecture made entirely from wood.

I lifted open the rear tailgate and Slawit jumped out, more in relief than excitement. After two and a half years of training, she still hates travelling in the car. Once on terra firma, her mood quickly changed: nose to the ground and tail in the air.

We crossed the footbridge over the Rio Cabe and began our walk along the recently renovated embankment footpath. From here we had an excellent view of the 16th century Romanesque bridge. Two ducks glided past us as we ambled down the path, closely followed by two tiny ducklings struggling to keep up. On the opposite bank Snow geese and Greylag geese were basking in the warm sunshine.

We continued along the footpath, passed the Romanesque bridge and up onto the main road bridge connecting the two halves of the town. From here we had a good view of El Escolapius, the 16th century Jesuit College and the architectural jewel in Monforte’s crown. 

We crossed the bridge and headed back to the car. Slawit seemed oblivious to the water fowl paddling up and down the river. Mind you, when it comes to likes and dislikes, a body of water runs a very close second to a journey in the car: she won’t even wade through a puddle.

Back at the Romanesque bridge we had two options: continue along the footpath where a gaggle of geese lay in wait or climb the steps at the side of the bridge and amble down the pavement. I had my reservations but Melanie insisted on finishing off our walk along the riverbank. Visions of spitting
geese, chasing us back down the footpath flashed through my mind. Nothing could have been further from reality: slowly and without drama our feathered friends waddled their way toward the river.

We arrived home just in time to see the footie results, Huddersfield Town 0 - Leicester City 2. Never mind, at least we had a good result, Peace and Quiet 3 – Hustle and Bustle 0.

Vine Watch – week 4

The vines received their first pesticide treatment of the year. From now on they’ll need spraying every ten days or after a downpour: whichever comes first. Keep your fingers crossed it’s the former.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

A busy week ended on Easter Sunday with a lunch invitation from friends. Our opinion was sought on one of my favourite pastimes, wine selection. We were charged with the serious responsibility of choosing a suitable wine for the wedding reception of their eldest daughter, later in the year. After
sampling four of the region’s finest, Val da Lenda emerged as the clear favourite. Given its young age, it is remarkably smooth, mellow and sophisticated. Come August, those wedding guests are in for a real treat.

The week had started on a high note: literally. Visiting friends from California invited us to a music concert at the Auditorio Muncipal in the town of Quiroga. Star of the show was Maria do Ceo, a Fado singer from Portugal, who now resides in Galicia. As the date approached our apprehension grew. Friends had greeted our announcement with curious facial expressions. The type of expression that says, “rather you than me”. 

A sparsely attended concert hall did nothing to allay our fears. Portuguese Fado music has a reputation for being mournful and dower; nothing could have been further from the truth. Two musicians took to the stage. The auditorium fell silent as the lights dimmed. Moments later Maria glided in, wearing a black, satin evening dress with a long, dark shawl draped over her shoulders. 

The musicians began to play: a Portuguese guitarist accompanied by a traditional classical guitar. Lively melodies filled the theatre and then Maria began to sing. Perfect pitch and passionate tones, each ballad told a story of life gained or love lost. The performance was flawless, far exceeding our expectations. Fado is one genre we’ll be looking out for in the future and Maria do Ceo in particular. 

It hardly came as a surprise that the glorious weather came to an abrupt end the moment the Easter holidays began. But we had no intention of letting a little rain spoil our weekend.  

Saturday saw the start of the two day Medieval Festival in Monforte de Lemos. Reading through the packed schedule, we decided to time our visit to coincide with the parade of contestants dressed in medieval costume and street entertainment of jesters, minstrels, and knights.

With usual gusto the local town’s folk, along with many holiday week visitors, immersed themselves in the occasion. Hundreds of people wandered around the streets dressed in all manor of medieval costumes: from kings and queens to blacksmiths and milkmaids. Participants in the costume contest climbed the stone steps in Plaza España, paid homage to the king and queen while the massed crowd applauded their efforts.

Afterwards we made our way up the narrow lanes heading towards the castle. Medieval themed market stalls lined the route and the sound of Galician bagpipes (gaitas) drifted through the crowd. On our return to the square, a large crowd had gathered around a group of street entertainers.

Two, twelve foot tall jesters danced on stilts urging onlookers to follow their motley crew through the streets of Monforte. Supporting their flamboyant act were a band of noisy drummers and a group of excited dancers, escorted around the town by a troop of medieval soldiers.

We finished our Easter weekend at our favourite pizza restaurant Bohemia, in the nearby town of Chantada: pizza and pasta cooked to perfection.

Vine Watch – week 3

Hidden within the fresh green foliage are miniature bunches of grapes. This year’s crop is beginning to show its face.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

I had every intention of staying sober at this year’s Sober wine fiesta but then again, I always do. The event’s official title is, Feira do viño de Amandi. The zona de Amandi is arguably the most prestigious
grape growing region in the Ribeira Sacra and the village of Sober is the area’s administrative capital. Over 90% of the wines produced in the Ribeira Sacra are inky reds; made primarily from the Mencia grape variety.

On Saturday evening, we left home at about 7:30 and made our way up the hill to the village of Sober. For this time of year, the weather was perfect: warm and still with wispy clouds creating a powder-blue backdrop. Small groups of teenagers lined the approach to the main square. They were sitting, cross
legged, on the pavement taking a quiet break from the main event. 

Despite the early hour, the main square seemed quite busy. For the last five years or so, the council has chosen to hire an enormous tent-like structure to cover the entire village square. The unpredictability of the weather and the potential financial loss to inclement conditions, forced their hand. In so doing, it dragged this rural wine fiesta well and truly into the twenty-first century.

We decided to pass on the wine tasting for the time being, choosing instead to wander around the packed village. Market stalls lined both sides of the streets selling everything from pot-bellied stills to regional cheeses.

Tasty aromas from street cafes filled the air as preparations began for night-time diners.

Floating kaleidoscopes drifted overhead as balloon sellers made their way through the crowds and it just wouldn’t feel like a Spanish fiesta without my old favourite, camas elasticas (trampolines).

Time was moving on and, as interesting as market stalls are, we were here to sample the region’s wines. We made our way back to the square and entered the temporary tent. The noise inside was deafening: amplified by its tunnel like design.

The rules were simple. Located on all three sides of the tent were individual stalls, each one occupied by a different local bodega. This year saw about 20 local wineries represented. In the centre of the tent, council employees were selling souvenir glasses for two euros each. Ownership of a glass entitled the holder to approach as many wineries as they wished and enjoy a free sample. The saying, “Last Man Standing” sprang to mind.

We eventually got to bed at 3:15 am. Thankfully, there’s a full twelve months to prepare for next year’s event.

Vine Watch – week 2

It’s a week since the vines began budding and thanks to warm spring weather their leaves are starting to open.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Less than a month after pruning the grapevines, the retained buds are bursting into life. Since the beginning of March, all the hard work has been building up to this moment. The mild, sunny weather has accelerated the vines development but dangers still lie ahead.

Last year a late frost killed all the young shoots. Overnight, tiny green leaves withered, bitten by the frosty cold. The dry, dead leaves crumbled into dust at the slightest touch. But confidence is high, it always is. The weather forecast is good and in a few more weeks we should be home and dry. 
 
As well as pruning the vines, the vineyard needed to be tilled and the weeds around the vines removed. This is an ongoing process until the middle of summer. At that point the weeds are allowed to grow. Their growth helps to slow down the vines foliage growth giving the grapes a better chance to mature. 

The ideal time to check on the trellises and training wires is while the vines are still dormant. The weight of last year’s crop had left some wires sagging and bent. These have to be tightened in readiness to take the strain.

All around us Nature is exploding into action. Not to be outshone, seasonal cherry blossom has burst into bloom. It’s a magnificent floral display but all too soon the blossom falls. Snow-like flurries take to the air and carpet the ground. Finally the sweet cherries form, like clusters of rubies hanging from the trees.

Our neighbour José has an orchard full of young cherry trees. He planted them almost a decade ago and each year shares the sweet harvest. For him though, the fruit is merely a tasty bonus. These trees were planted as a gift, an inheritance for his children. One day the timber from these trees will be worth a small fortune: forward planning at its most innovative.

Until that time, José intends to enjoy his horticultural investment. To call him a crafty grafter might pay him a disservice. José has used all his skill and experience to produce a dual blossoming cherry: both
white and pink.

Even the roadside verges have begun their colourful display. Everyday whilst walking the dog, Nature has a new surprise waiting for me. How thoughtful she is at this special time of year. A mix of colourful wild flowers will soon carpet the grassy verges with a kaleidoscopic spectacle of Natures varied palette. 

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

More often than not, the March weather throws up a few surprises here in Galicia; this year was no exception. Damp, misty mornings characterised the beginning of the month. Busy spiders created intricate webs, hanging from dormant grapevines like carefully crocheted doilies.   

From one extreme to the other: the temperature soared.

The tulips rejoiced at the warm bright sunshine.

A day of mourning followed for my friend Mariano: The Madrileño. 

This glorious spring weather was an opportunity not to be missed.

There was work to do in the vineyards.
            “A keen eye and a pair of razor-sharp secateurs are all that separate success from failure. Mistakes at this stage will be costly”.

Even the storks were busy: a little minor renovation work in preparation for the new arrivals. 

The garden is hardly at its best at this time of year but don’t tell the pansies that.

We’re not out of the woods yet though. The icy cold of winter refuses to let go of the distant mountain tops.

The church of Canabal provides a calming backdrop for a neighbour’s horse. He’s just happy to be out in the sunshine after a long wet winter.

In the village of Sober the flags are out, Spain and Galicia, motionless in the still air.

Not a second of daylight is wasted as the work continues on – from dawn until dusk.

Throughout the day clumps of Red Clover brighten up the roadside verges.

Before anyone asks, no I'm not a train spotter, I just happened to find myself down by the station in Canabal.

The sun has set on another month. The clocks have leapt forward and summer is on its way.

These are my favourite snaps but which is your favourite?

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Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook