In this, the final part of my series Camino Secrets, I will be unashamedly extolling the virtues of a vacation in Galicia; and in particular a stay at our luxury farmhouse rental, Campo Verde.

If I had to describe this remote region, in the northwest corner of Spain, in just three words it would be; 

‘Galicia shatters preconceptions’.

People’s biggest misconception is the weather. It would be foolish of me to say that it doesn’t rain in Galicia, because it does. The annual rainfall here is roughly the same as in the UK, however; from May through to October, Galicia is as hot as many other parts of Spain and hotter than some. You don’t have to be a gardener to know that water plus sunlight equals life; and Galicia is teeming with it. 

One of our guests commented, ‘I’ve never seen so many trees’.

Galicia has something for everyone but could never be described as, ‘All Inclusive’. It’s a magical land steeped in history and rich in culture, where a sense of adventure and willingness to explore will reap rewards beyond your wildest dreams; but seeing is believing, take this virtual tour and let your imagination drift into a forgotten world.  

Having made the decision to enter the holiday rental market, we had three clear objectives; choose the best location, provide the most desirable property, and offer a friendly and professional service.

When choosing the location of our luxury farmhouse rental, providing quick and easy access to Galicia’s excellent road network was an important consideration. Campo Verde is situated in the centre of Galicia in the quiet village of Vilatan; and although it’s less than one kilometre from a major link road, the only noise you’ll hear is the chirping of cicadas and the relaxing sounds of nature. Within minutes, guests can be en route to all Galicia’s major tourist centres. Even in the middle of summer, driving in Galicia is a stress-free experience along traffic-free highways.

Galicia has more than its fair share of crumbling ruins but finding the right one for us proved more difficult than we’d expected. Eventually we came across Campo Verde and immediately knew that this was the home of dreams. With painstaking patience, and using local craftsmen, we recreated a traditional Galician farmhouse: saving many original features whilst sympathetically incorporating all the luxuries of modern living. Today, Campo Verde is a luxury retreat that more than lives up to its billing
of, ‘Quality accommodation for the discerning traveller’. Take this virtual tour and find out for yourself.

Our third objective was the easiest to achieve: a friendly and professional service. From the minute we receive an enquiry, to the morning guests depart, we’re never more than a phone call away. We pride ourselves on providing the best possible holiday experience: from a free, welcome grocery starter pack to the exclusive self-drive tour guide and restaurant guide; but don’t take my word for it, check out these guest comments.  

If you’ve never experienced Galicia then don’t delay, book today; and if you have, then perhaps it’s
time to return.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

For people with health issues, or those on a tight schedule, walking the Camino de Santiago is not always practical or possible. Touring by car is not only a great alternative but provides unique opportunities for interesting and lengthy detours. As if to emphasise this point, our next tour turned a 100 metre bridge crossing into a 65 kilometre diversion that introduced us to some of the most stunning scenery in Galicia.

As usual our day began in the quiet village of Vilatan, location of our luxury rural retreat Campo Verde. Having driven through the village we joined the CG2.1 (LU-533) heading in the direction of Chantada. After five kilometres the road crosses the river Miño on a long road bridge, suspended above the valley on tall concrete pillars. Immediately before crossing the bridge we turned left. A narrow lane, shaded from the morning sunlight by ancient chestnut trees, leads down to the riverbank. 
 
We followed the course of the river for a further three kilometres where we entered the village of
Belesar. On the right, nestled into the riverbank, is the restaurant Abaceria O Batuxo. The magical
scenery from this peaceful riverside eatery provided us with the perfect excuse to take our first refreshment break of the day.

The restaurant takes its name from the flat bottomed boats once used to cross the river, carrying
anything from grapes to livestock. Today it provides patrons with the perfect view of Belesar Bridge, the only river Miño crossing along the Camino Invierno (Winter Route). We ordered refreshments and soaked up the stunning scenery. From the dark cool waters of the river, terraced vineyards rise hundreds of feet following the contours of the steep river valley. Ghostly reflections of colourfully painted village houses shimmer in the still water. 

Suitably refreshed we continued on. The bridge at Belesar was the starting point of our detour. Rather
than crossing we drove straight past, following the course of the river. The photo opportunities along this narrow winding road are endless as it meanders its way downstream through small vineyards, roadside orchards, and pine forests. Eventually the road begins its steep ascent up the valley towards the
village of Fion. Just outside the village was the next stop on our tour, Ecomuseo de Arxeriz. 

The museum is housed in a renovated stately home or Pazo. A stroll through the grounds gives a unique insight into the privileged lives of the Spanish aristocracy. It’s open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, 11 a.m.
until 2 p.m. with regular guided tours that are usually available in English.

The museum is split into three sections; the history of the Ribeira Sacra region, the process and commerce of viniculture, and the constantly changing story of the river Miño. After the guided tour we wandered around the beautifully manicured gardens, admiring the craftsmanship of the stone terracing and garden walls. The stonemason, Alfonso, also built the garden walls at Campo Verde.

Lunchtime was quickly approaching: a fact reinforced by my rumbling stomach. Without delay we
continued on, following signs for Ferreira. From there we joined the N-120 in the direction of Ourense. The road descends steeply, careering down the valley side; ending at the village of Os Peares. It’s here that two great rivers, the Miño, and the Sil converge. It’s also home to the restaurant Acea do Bubal. This converted watermill and chocolate factory serves an excellent menu del dia in a tranquil riverside setting.

By far the most interesting way to reach the restaurant is by walking across the railway bridge. On entering the village a road bridge crosses the river Sil. Immediately after this we parked the car in the shade of several plane trees. From here, steps lead down to the railway bridge and the pedestrian
walkway. Even in the middle of summer, the air is fresh and cool as the river Miño races past beneath.

With our hunger satisfied, we made our way back to the car and continued on. After less than two kilometres we turned left and drove across the Os Peares dam. From here we turned right, following signs for Chantada along the LU-P-1801. The road hugs the contours of the valley, twisting and turning as we headed upstream. After about 12 kilometres we pulled into the roadside verge to feast on this amazing landscape. From here we could clearly see the river island: an unusual feature formed as the water level rose following the completion of the Os Peares dam in 1955.

We continued on for another 14 kilometres, passing through tiny hamlets and small villages until we
saw a signpost directing us back to Belesar. We’d almost come full circle, turning our 100 metre bridge crossing into a day-long adventure. In the village of Lincora we turned left and began our very steep descent back towards the bridge in Belesar. About halfway down the valley is the restaurant and winery Meson e Adega do Veiga. Surrounded by terraced vineyards, it’s a great place to stop and sample the local wines: I can particularly recommend the 2006 Mencia, if there’s any left.

One glass of this fine, fruity wine is never enough. Having bought a couple of bottles we headed for home. The drive back to Campo Verde took about ten minutes: not too long to wait for another glass.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

In part 7 of my series, Camino Secrets, our excursion to Verin and Allariz took us through Ourense: provincial capital of the only landlocked province in Galicia; and an important stopover on the Camino Sanabrés. On our next adventure we decided to take a closer look at this major inland city. 

As usual our day began in the village of Vilatan, in the south of Lugo province. From there we sped off in the direction of Chantada before joining the N-540; following signs for Ourense. After ten kilometres we reached the village of A Barrela where we turned right, heading deeper into the Galician countryside along winding country roads. Within 20 minutes we were trundling through the deserted lanes of Oseira, our first stop of the day.

Situated in the heart of this rural Spanish village is the imposing Monastery of Santa Maria de Oseira.The monastery, whose origins can be traced back to 1137, is home to several Trappist monks: a branch of the Order of Cistercians. Guided tours run hourly, Monday to Saturday from 10 until 12 in the morning and 3:30 through to 5:30 in the afternoon. As this is a working monastery access is restricted but the splendid architectural features in the public areas are well worth the visit. 

Before continuing on we decided to stop for a coffee at the village café/bar Escudo: a typically Galician establishment. Suitably refreshed, we resumed our journey. Rather than double back on ourselves we drove through the village, following signs to Cea. Narrow country lanes wind there way through rolling hills and picturesque countryside. Before too long we reached the N-525: main road between Ourense and Santiago de Compostela.

The city of Ourense is divided by the river Miño and joined together by no fewer than six bridges: three road bridges, two pedestrian bridges and a railway bridge. Two further foot bridges, on the outskirts of the city, link a riverside promenade that runs for over 14 kilometres along both riverbanks. This popular promenade is a great place to stretch your legs and enjoy the river scenery; but for the best river views, my suggestion would be the walkway around the Puente del Milenio (Millennium Bridge).

Designed by Alvaro Varela de Ugarte and completed in 2001, this dynamic suspension bridge carries four lanes of traffic across the river. It marries contemporary design with modern engineering to produce an inescapable city landmark. Suspended from the structure, like a dormant rollercoaster, is a hammock shaped walkway. 

We accessed the walkway from the roadside and began our steep descent. The noise of city traffic faded as we descended below the level of the road, replaced by the gushing water of the river Miño: a cool breeze swept through my hair as the water rushed past, just metres below. The climb to the top of the suspension tower was long and steep, and almost took my breath away. Thankfully it didn’t; that privilege was saved for the views.

Upstream I had a clear view of the Puente Romano (Roman Bridge), the history of which can be traced back to the 1st century. Downstream, the fast flowing river rushed past the ancient thermal spas, renowned for their healing properties; surrounding this is a modern urban skyline set against a backdrop
of forested mountains and highland pastures.

The old town of Ourense is a little harder to find. From the Millennium Bridge we walked along Av. Prado de Cela and followed Rúa Progreso for about a kilometre until we reached the square Praza Bispo Césáreo. Here we turned left, walked through the square before entering Praza Maior in the heart of the old town. By now we’d built up quite a thirst so we pulled up a chair at one of the many café/bars lining the square and ordered a cool beer: 1906 is my favourite, brewed in Galicia by Estrella; but a word of advice, if you’re the driver avoid the 1906 Red Vintage: it’s 8% proof.

We were tempted to stay for lunch, enticed by the large number of restaurants and wide choice of cuisine but I had other plans. We left Ourense, following the course of the river Miño along the N-120 towards Monforte de Lemos. At Os Peares the road begins its long and twisting climb out of the valley. The scenery is spectacular: forested slopes of ancient chestnuts, mirrored in the dark water of the river Miño as it snakes through the valley below.

The final stop on our tour was the village of Ferriera de Pantón. Opposite the town hall is the restaurant O Mosteiro (Comandante Cruz Puente 0rdax, nº 1, 27430 Pantón, Lugo +34 982456462). They serve a great value menu del dia (menu of the day). The owners serve up a traditional, home-cooked three course lunch, including wine and coffee; all for a miserly nine euros. My personal favourite is Merluza a la plancha (grilled steaks of hake) served with chips and a fresh green salad. In my opinion, the owner Anna cooks the perfect grilled hake: virgin white and deliciously moist. 

The drive back to our luxury farmhouse rental Campo Verde was short, giving us plenty of time to relax in the warm sunshine and enjoy a late afternoon snooze.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook 

Most people’s knowledge of the Camino de Santiago or Way of St. James is limited to the Camino
Francés: an arduous trek from the French border to the city of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. However; the routes to Santiago are as varied as the countryside they pass through: take the Via de la Plata (Silver Route) for example. 

The starting point of this pilgrimage is the southern city of Seville in Andalusia. From there it passes through Zafra, Mérida, Cáceres, and Salamanca on its way north. At the city of Zamora, pilgrims have a
choice, they can continue northward to Astorga or head northwest through northern Portugal; re-entering Spain near the town of Verin. 

Verin forms the crossroad of three camino routes: Caminho Portugués de la Via de la Plata, Caminho Português do Interior, and an alternative route along the Camino Sanabrés. It’s also one of the focal points of our seventh tour to discover more of the camino’s secrets.

Once again our day began at the luxury farmhouse, Campo Verde in the sleepy village of Vilatan. After making our way to the main road we turned right and headed towards Chantada. From there we followed the N-540 and N-525 into Ourense. 

We left Ourense and headed out along the A-52 in the direction of Madrid. This scenic motorway slices its way through the Galician countryside, climbing high into the mountains. After 54 km the highway begins its descent towards the historic town of Verin.

With over ten kilometres still to drive, the impressive fortifications of the castle of Monterrei were clearly
visible: perched on a hilltop overlooking the town and surrounding countryside. The castle is the largest hilltop fortress in Galicia and during the Middle Ages was the seat of the lineage of the Dukes of Alba. Once in the town centre we followed signs for the Parador. A narrow road winds its way through
vineyards as we climbed the hillside to this striking monument. 

The castle is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 11 am until 2 pm and again in the afternoon from 5 pm
until 8 pm. Like many tourist sites in Galicia this historic monument and museum are free to enter. The original fortifications were formed by three walled enclosures, all of which can be seen today. The most interesting of these is the hilltop complex which includes; the Renaissance Palace, the 15th century Torre del Homenaje (Homage Tower), the Torre de las Damas (Tower of the Ladies), the remains of the Pilgrims’ Hospital, and the Gothic Church of Santa Maria. Most of these buildings are credited to Sancho
Sánchez de Ulloa, first Count of Monterrei in the 15th century. 

The regularity of guided tours is rather hit and miss; but if you’re lucky enough to join one, the guides do their best to cover the most interesting parts of the narrative in English. The museum has a number of noteworthy exhibits but for me, the highlight of the castle was the tower. From ground level the climb was difficult and steep. As we neared the top the stairs became very narrow, the ceilings extremely low, and the light particularly dim; but the views from the top over the surrounding area are spectacular. It wasn’t until we made our way down that I noticed the masons marks, chiselled into the huge stone blocks; a feature worth looking out for.  

Opposite the castle is the Parador of Verin (32600, Verin, Ourense +34 902 54 79 79). Despite its appearance, it’s a contemporary building built in the style of a Galician pazo or manor house. It’s also the
perfect location to stop for lunch. For fish lovers I can highly recommend the Merluza a la Gallega: succulent pieces of hake cooked in a stew with potatoes, onions and garlic; and for dessert why not try the pancakes (filloas), delicious with chocolate ice cream. To accompany our lunch we ordered a bottle
of Viña Verino from the Gargalo winery (Rua do Castelo 59, 32619, Verin, Ourense +34 988 590 203). Looking out through the restaurant window we could see the grapes ripening on the slopes below the 
castle.

After lunch we headed off to our final stop on the tour, Allariz. As we headed back along the A-52 towards Ourense we caught our first glimpse of the Real Monesterio de Santa Clara (Royal Monastery of
St. Claire). Only from such a distance can the size and majesty of this medieval monastery be appreciated. It dates back to 1268 when Queen Violante, wife of Alfonso X ordered its construction.

Central to the town is the plaza mayor: an unsurfaced and disproportionately large open square. A tree lined avenue runs from an ornamental fountain across the plaza mayor to the church of San Benito. A network of cobbled streets, lined with quaint cottages, runs through the town linking a number of charming old churches. Without doubt, Allariz must be one of the most picturesque towns in the province of Ourense: a rewarding way to finish our drive along this part of the camino.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs
 
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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain

Throughout its history the most popular routes of the Camino de Santiago have remained relatively unchanged; others fade in and out of popularity with the passage of time. One of these less popular routes takes pilgrims from A Gudiña on the Camino Sanabrés to A Rúa on the Camino de Invierno. The trail passes through the town of Viana do Bolo on its way to El Santuario de la Virgen de las Ermidas (The Sanctuary of the Virgin Mary)

It may well be an overused cliché, but this day trip is truly, ‘off the beaten track’ but for those who dare, the rewards are worth the effort. Once again, the starting point for our adventure was the luxury farmhouse Campo Verde, nestled cosily in the village of Vilatan. 
 
It was a bright sunny morning as we crept slowly along the narrow village lanes and on to the main
road heading towards the town of Monforte de Lemos: beating heart of the Ribeira Sacra wine growing region. From here we joined the N120 west bound, following signs for Ponferrada. Within 40 minutes we had arrived at our first destination, A Rúa.

This sleepy town in the province of Ourense is home to some of the best wines in Spain: indeed, in 2011 the renowned US wine critic Robert M. Parker catalogued wines from A Rúa as elite in the world of wines. One of my personal favourite is Pingadel (Godello) a fresh and fragrant white wine from the Virgin de las Viñas Bodgea Coop (Campo Grande 97, 32350 A Rúa, Ourense, +34 988 310 607).

Dominating the town is a large reservoir, encoro de San Martiño, formed by the dam of the same name.
A wide promenade runs along its western edge, ending at a lakeside café. It’s the perfect place to take a break and soak up the magnificent scenery; if it’s not too early, why not try a glass of Pingadel.

Having finished our refreshments we continued on, heading south along the OU-533 for about 14km. The road heads into the mountains, twisting and turning through acres of vineyards. Keep an eye out for
signposts to the sanctuary or you’ll miss this hidden treasure and drive straight past.

El Santuario de la Virgen de las Ermidas, is open everyday from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m. and takes its name from a sacred artefact discovered in the area. Legend has it that a group of herdsmen, from the nearby town of O Bolo, were drawn to the entrance of a hidden cave by their cattle. Inside they found a statue of the Virgin Mary holding her newborn child. A small shrine was built to house the image.

Construction of the magnificent building seen today began in the 17th century and was the result of a remarkable event. In 1624 the bishop of Astorga, Don Alonso Messia of Tovar, was visiting parishioners in the area when he became gravely ill. Physicians from Monforte de Lenos were called to attend; their prognosis was grave. Whilst lying on his deathbed the bishop experienced an apparition of the Virgin Mary. Miraculously he recovered, discovering several days later that the ancient statue of the Virgin Mary was identical to his apparition. Immediately he ordered the construction of a sanctuary worthy of such a divine miracle.

The cool interior of the church is dark and sombre; and smaller than you might expect. Hanging from the ceiling, above the central aisle, you’ll find a model of a Spanish galleon. It was given to the church by Pedro Centro, following yet another miracle. On the 23rd September 1702 Pedro, a native of San Juan de la cuestas de Sanabria, was thrown overboard while serving in the Spanish navy. Unable to swim, he trod water for 3 hours before another vessel was able to save him. These types of ex-vetos are more commonly seen in coastal churches.

But to my mind, the most remarkable aspect of this church lies beyond the railings that separate the nave from the apse and transepts. Mounted on the wall between the last two rows of pews you’ll find a light switch. Flick it on and prepare to be amazed. Looking like a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean, the apse glistens with precious treasure: gold and silver adorn the altar and beautiful artwork hangs on the walls. With lunchtime approaching we left the sanctuary and continued south to the town of Viana do Bolo.

At first glance Viana do Bolo is an unremarkable little town, lacking some TLC; but dig a little deeper and you’ll find a charming inland community with a rich history and some remarkable vantage points from which to view the surrounding countryside. It also boasts one of the best restaurants in the area: A Nosa Casa (Rúa Libertade, 2 – bajo, Viano do Bolo, Ourense, 32550, +34 988 329 317).

Galician beef is as revered in Spain as Aberdeen Angus is in the UK; and the best fillet steak (solomillo
de tenera) I have ever eaten in Spain was served here: high praise indeed but fully justified. Having satisfied our hunger it was time to walk it off. Opposite the restaurant is the entrance to the Plaza Mayor. The square has a very French feel to it. We walked through the plaza and joined a narrow street which heads up towards the torre (tower).

At the fork in the road we turned left and continued on to a small, roadside park. From here the views across the reservoir are stunning, particularly in late spring. The road bridge crossing the water marks the point where the Rio Bibei, to the left, merges with the Rio Camba, on the right. After taking in the sight we continued onward and upward, past the church and up some stone steps to the torre.

The present torre dates back to the 15th century and was built on the site of an earlier tower constructed around 1180 by King Fernando II of Leon. Throughout thecenturies it’s had many different uses, even doubling as a prison during the Spanish Civil War. Today the tower is used as a museum displaying cultural and artistic items specific to the area. We ambled our way back down the narrow lanes and began our return journey to A Rúa. The next point of interest on our tour was La Cruz de Santa Cruz. 

Perched on top of a hill, overlooking the village of Santa Cruz and the surrounding countryside is an eight metre tall, concrete cross. The inhabitants of Santa Cruz finished its construction in 1990, officially opening it to the public on 30thAugust that year. For villager Manuel Gonzalez Rodriguez, it was the realisation of a childhood dream. 

A dirt track leads to the entrance of this unusual landmark; as we approached a man appeared out of
nowhere as if by magic. He introduced himself as Manuel and enthusiastically greeted us to his monument. Entrance is free and the attraction never closes. The climb to the top is quite steep and uneven but the outstanding views are well worth the exertion. The final stop on this tour was Torre Castelo do O Bolo (The castle and tower of O Bolo) just a short drive from Santa Cruz. 

The town of O Bolo first appears in Roman texts around the 1st century AD. The history of the medieval castle is less clear. It’s thought that either Queen Urraca (1078 – 1126), daughter of Alfonso VI of Leon, or her daughter, Sancha Raimundez (c. 1095/1102 - 1159) was responsible for its construction. In the 12th and 13th century, title of the castle rested with the Counts of Lemos. In the 15th century, during the Irmandiños revolts (peasant uprisings) the castle was destroyed only to be rebuilt in the 16th century under the patronage of Juan Francisco Pimentel, Count of Benavente.

By the 18th century both the castle and torre had fallen into disrepair. In more modern times the castle found many uses including a primary school and a jail; but in 1999, under the supervision of the town council, they were restored and now form an interesting, interactive museum. I couldn’t resist the chance to rollback the years and enjoy a boyhood fantasy: dressing up as a heavily armed Spanish knight perched atop my wooden stallion. The castle is accessible throughout the week but the tower and museum are only open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 4 p.m. until 8 p.m.

The views from the roof of the torre are amazing but for bird lovers there’s an even more impressive site on the climb there. During June and July a pair of Kestrels return every year to the torre to nest in the exact same arrow loop (narrow wall opening). A peephole in a blackened window allows visitors to get within inches of this incredible sight: hungry chicks feeding from the beaks of their parents
 
The drive home passed quickly and before long we were sitting in the garden, marvelling at the evening sky as the colour changed from blue to red. We recounted the day’s events and looked forward to our next foray into the Galician countryside.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain

Today’s officially recognised camino routes represent a small proportion of the pathways and tracks used by pilgrims during the latter half of the Middle Ages. Many of these minor trails emerged out of necessity, the alternative winter route being one.

The official Camino de Invierno (Winter Route) begins in Ponferrada and passes through the town of
Quiroga on its way to Santiago de Compostela. Attacks along the camino were a real danger to pilgrims
and although the area around Quiroga was protected by Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, their presence suggests a heightened threat on this part of the trail. 
 
To avoid Quiroga, some pilgrims crossed the river Sil in the town of A Rúa and headed into the mountains, passing through Puebla de Trives and on to Castro Caldelas. From here the road descends back to the river Sil where a large wooden bridge, considered one of the wonders of Galicia in the Middles Ages, crossed the river near the village of Paradela. After another steep climb, to the village of
Doade, pilgrims would rejoin the Camino Invierno (winter route) in the town of Monforte de Lemos.
The detour was long and arduous, reaffirming the mortal perils that awaited pilgrims along the main route.

Our fifth day of exploration followed ancient trails along the Canyon of the river Sil in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra wine growing region. Once again, our starting point was the luxury farmhouse rental Campo Verde, in the village of Vilatan. We started out by heading to Monforte de Lemos and then followed signs to Doade. As we entered the village, there was a sign on the left pointing to the Miradoiro Pena de Castelo.

The Cañón de Sil is littered with miradors (viewing points); but in my opinion, Pena de Castelo is the most stunning. Be sure to take your camera: you wouldn’t want to miss this photo opportunity.

The walk to the mirador is along a well-made track; shaded in some areas by pine forests and natural woodland. Perched alongside the viewing point is a small chapel dedicated to San Mauro. The view of the canyon is breathtaking: the river Sil snakes through the gorge like a giant anaconda and terraced vineyards rise over 1000 metres from its banks. To visit Galicia and not see this spectacular landscape would be like visiting Egypt and missing the pyramids.

From the village of Doade we drove down the steep valley side, twisting and turning through steps of terraced vineyards to the river’s edge. The medieval wooden bridge of Ponte Paradela has long since gone, replaced by a modern crossing. Before continuing, why not stop for refreshments at the Club Nautico de Doade. A long, riverside terrace provides beautiful views of the river and spectacular aerial displays from House Martins nesting under the bridge.

After quenching our thirst we continued on to Castro Caldelas. The village is set on a natural outcrop overlooking the surrounding area. The Castle and medieval village were declared a historic and artistic site in 1998. Step back in time and wander through the narrow streets. Just past the castle you’ll find the Centro Comarcal (Information Centre). There are a number of exhibitions including an interactive 3D map of the whole area: it’s certainly worth a visit. The castle is open from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m. and from 4 p.m.
until 7 p.m. You’ll need a head for heights; guardrails were not part of medieval thinking, but the views from the ramparts are magnificent.

The castle was constructed by Pedro Fernández de Castro between 1336 and 1343. Nearby, numerous
battles were fought to gain control over the regions' lands. Its walls display numerous coats of arms indicating its chequered past. Around the main entrance there are the coats of arms of the Osorio (two wolves), the Castro (six circular forms), the Kingdom of León (a rampant lion) and the Kingdom of Castile (a castle): and on the clock tower an inscription of the Greek letter tau is a symbol associated with the Order of the Knights Templar. 

The next stop on our journey took us to Montederramo and the Santa Maria Monastery. Arrangements for viewing the monastery are quite unique. Opposite the church, to the right of the fountain, you’ll see a bright-yellow sign with the name Correos (Post Office) on it. This nondescript building also doubles as the local ayuntamiento (town hall). To view the monastery, ask at the post office counter; if it’s closed pop up to the first floor and ask there. Don’t let this little eccentricity put you off: we found everyone really helpful and more than willing to show us their church

The original monastery dates back to the 11th century but was rebuilt and extended in the 16th and 17th centuries. The church is built in the Herreriano style in the shape of a Latin cross with three naves crowned with ribbed vaults. On the upper floor of the church you’ll find the renovated choir stalls: the number of seats reflecting its importance. The high alter has also been painstakingly restored: carved from chestnut, it is illuminated with painted bible scenes. It’s here, in the monastery’s founding documents, that the name Ribeira Sacra (Riboyra Sacrata) first appears.

By the end of the 17th century it had become an education centre for abbots and monks and remained so until the church cloisters were sold in 1835. There are two cloisters, both of which are still in private ownership. The first, called Reglar, is of late Gothic design with an impressive ribbed vault. Today it is used as a school for local children. The second, named Hospederia, is of Spanish Renaissance design; decorated with medallions and coats of arms. Today it houses private apartments and the restaurant Casa Elvira (Praza 20, Montederramo, 32750 Ourense +34 988 292 019)

After lunch at Casa Elvira, we left Motenderramo and followed signs for Parada de Sil and onward to Mosteiro de Sta. Cristina (Santa Cristina Monastery). Don’t let the steep gradient deter you from visiting; this Benedictine monastery is one of the area’s earliest, dating back to the 10th century. Its prominence grew throughout the Middle Ages and in the 16th century it became a priory of Santo Estevo de Ribas
Sil.

The church is one of the best examples of Galician Romanesque style of the late 12thand early 13th centuries. Once again it’s built along the Latin cross design with three semicircular naves. The main
façade features a rose window. Unfortunately the church remains locked for all but special occasions; if you’re lucky enough to visit when it is open, you’ll have the opportunity to admire the Renaissance frescos.

What remains of the rest of the monastery is accessed through a stone archway featuring sculptured symbols and ornaments. Only two of the cloister’s arcades remain. These can be accessed by climbing the stone steps in the far corner. The wooden floors are quite new and provide fantastic views of the river below.

To continue on we retraced our steps and followed signs to Mosteiro de Santo Estevo, the final stop on today’s tour. As we approached, we caught glimpses of the monastery’s red tiled roof through the thick woodland. Follow the road to its end where you’ll find the car park.

The monastery dates back to the 10th century, although some scholars believe it is built on the site of an earlier church, San Martin de Dumio between 550 and 555. Whatever its origins, by the 18th century it had become the single most important monastery in the region.

The church has a Romanesque base with later, gothic style additions; these include the basilica, consisting of three naves and semicircular apses. The monastery is organised around three cloisters which are Romanesque, gothic, and renaissance in design. The facade is baroque and was built in the 18th century.

In 1835 the Catholic Church sold the property to a private individual. After this the building fell into decline until, in 1923, the monastery was declared a historic and artistic site. Today, this majestic
building is part of the Parador Group of hotels. 

Before heading back, to a relaxing evening at Campo Verde, why not rest for a while in the hotel bar, its contemporary glass frontage looks out over the three historic cloisters; and if you’re looking for a suggestion, their hot chocolate is to die for.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain

Without leaving mainland Spain, the region of Galicia is as far from the tourist-packed Costas of the Mediterranean as it’s possible to be. People choosing to holiday here are looking for more than sun and sangria: Galicia has a rich history and strong culture. To fully appreciate this diverse region, finding a base in a central location is an important factor. 

“Campo Verde is ideally located for those seeking the best of both worlds - rural tranquillity and urban amenities.
Excellent road communications make it easy to explore all the major tourist areas in Galicia and Northern Portugal.”
  
Today’s excursion will test this claim. 
 
Even in the height of summer, touring in Galicia and Northern Portugal is a driver’s dream – stress-free motoring on traffic-free highways.

Once again our tour began from Campo Verde, our luxury farmhouse rental in the sleepy village of Vilatan. After joining the main road we headed towards Ourense, capital city of the only landlocked province in Galicia. Climbing out of Ourense we joined the A52, (Autovia de Rias Baixas) following signs to Vigo. The road climbs high into the mountains, affording brief glimpses of the great river Miño as it snakes its way silently towards the Atlantic. It’s a spectacular drive on silky-smooth tarmac.

At Ribadavia we exited the motorway and followed signs to Portugal and the market town of Melgaço. Our route from Spain into Portugal followed the Camiño Xacobeo Miñoto-Ribeiro, a lesser known tributary route of the Camino de Santiago from Portugal into Spain. This stretch of road winds its way through ancient forests, twisting and turning as it hugs the contours of the river valley. Eventually we reached the small market town of Melgaço.

Once a year, on the last weekend in April, the population of this sleepy, mountain town mushrooms in size. Melgaço is at the heart of the Alvarinho wine growing region and as such hosts the annual Alvarinho wine fiesta. Tens of thousands flock here from both sides of the border to taste this deliciously crisp and fruity white wine. One of my personal favourites is Quinta de Melgaço.

For the rest of the year, Melgaço reverts back to it Medieval roots, centered on a 12thcentury castle and
tower. Narrow streets, lined with picturesque cottages, wind their way through the old town leading to the castle. The tower, now a museum, affords visitors a panoramic view of the town and the surrounding countryside and for an admission fee of one euro, is well worth a visit.

There are two other museums of note: the Solar do Alvarinho (wine museum) where visitors can sample different Alvarinho wines and the Museu de Cinema de Melgaço (museum of cinema): established by the French film critic Jean Loup Passek, he gifted his extensive collection of cinematic objects to the
municipality.

Depending on the time, you may wish to stop for lunch, if so I can highly recommend Restaurante Chafarix, (Praça Amadeu Abilio Lopes, Melgaço +351 251 403 400). They serve an extensive range of traditional Portuguese dishes. For lovers of a fine steak, why not try contrafilé (tenderloin of beef) accompanied with a glass Pomares, a delicious red wine from the Douro valley.

As tempting it was to stay for lunch, we decided to continue on to the next stop on today’s tour; the town of Monçāo. Its population has been in decline since the early 1960’s, a fact reflected in some of the towns more neglected properties. It’s not to everyone’s taste, but I love the contrast between pristine renovations and crumbling wrecks, it’s so typical of many Portuguese towns.

Monçāo sits on a hillside overlooking the river Miño. The views, both upstream and down, are beautiful. It also has the distinction of lying roughly equidistant between Melgaço, on the Camiño Xacobeo Miñoto-Ribeiro, and Valença on the Camino Portugués. Travellers on the latter have the option to continue on the Camino Portugués to Santiago de Compostela or travel upstream along the river Miño and join the Camiño Xacobeo Miñoto-Ribeiro into Ribadavia and on to Santiago that way.

Wandering around the old town will undoubtedly build up an appetite and I know just the place to silence a rumbling stomach. Pizzaria Don Genaro (Rua Doutor Jośe Luis Dias, 4950-473 Monçāo +351
251 652 487). There are other, more traditional restaurants in the town; but if you enjoy a great pizza, this is the place to eat; and the selection of desserts is mouthwatering. The house vino verde is fresh, light, and crisp: an excellent accompaniment to pizza or pasta. 

Having satisfied our hunger we moved on to our final destination of the day, the fortress town of Valença: last stop along the Camino Portugués before crossing the river Miño into Spain.

Every Wednesday, hundreds of nomadic traders descend on this Portuguese border town to sell their wares at a huge open-air market. From the hill overlooking the market, the covered stalls look like an enormous Bedouin camp; on bright sunny days, this vast expanse of tethered white tarpaulins comes
alive as it shimmers in the breeze.

However; Valença has much more to offer visitors than a large market. The town developed around the Roman road connecting Braga with Tui. Confirmation of this can be seen today in the Roman milestone marking a distance of 42 miles (XLII) from Braga. Originally named Contrasta, (meaning, ‘village opposed to another’ in this case Tui) it was renamed Valença in the 13th century by King Alfonso III. Its main attraction is a 14th century hilltop fortress, staring across the river Miño at the town of Tui in Galicia. Due to its location, and military significance, the fortress has seen a great deal of action: most recently during the Napoleonic invasion in the 19th century. 

Today the fortress is a thriving tourist attraction: a bustling, busy town packed with shops and restaurants. Within its walls are a number of interesting historical monuments including several churches. The Iglesia de Santa María de los Ángeles (Church of Saint Mary) dates back to the 13th century and is well worth a visit.

My advice would be to drive into the castle and park within its walls. Driving through the imposing, yet narrow, medieval gateway is a challenging and interesting experience; some might go as far as to say hair-raising.

Before long it was time to head back home. Rather than retrace our steps, we drove down to the river and crossed the old international bridge. Built in 1879, this iron bridge was a collaboration between Spain and Portugal. After crossing the bridge turn right and follow the signs for Salvaterra. The road follows the course the river Miño upstream, meandering through vineyards of Albariño grapes. From Salvaterra there are signs for the A52 leading back to Ourense. 

Having treated ourselves to a bottle of Quinta de Melgaço Alvarinho earlier in the day, I popped the cork later that evening and we settled down to a well earned rest.  
 
Copyright © 2009 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 
 
Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain

The third tour in this series called for an early start; we had a busy day of exploring ahead of us and didn’t want to miss a thing. Our destination was El Castillo de los Templarios (Castle of the Knights Templar) in Ponferrada.

Working backwards from Monforte de Lemos we travelled along the Camino de Invierno (Winter Route) sometimes referred to as Camino Sur (South Route).

We set off straight after breakfast. After reaching Monforte de Lemos we headed out in the direction of Ponferrada. After 36km we saw signs for Castilla de Torrenovaes, (Castle New Tower) the first place of interest on our tour. The castle dates back to the 10th century: the adjacent palace was a 13th century addition. It occupies a prominent position overlooking the camino and the river Sil. 

The castle was a stronghold of the Knights of the Order of St John of Jerusalem. It’s said that the palace was home to the Grand commander of Spain, one of the six top posts within the Order. From here the knights provided protection for pilgrims journeying to Santiago.

The lane leading up to the castle is incredibly steep and difficult to climb but the views over the valley make the trek worthwhile. A few words of warning though, don’t forget your camera: you certainly wouldn’t want to make the climb twice. On the far side of the castle is the village of Os Novais with ancient, cobbled lanes, picturesque cottages with original wooden balconies, and a tiny church.

After leaving the castle, we continued in the direction of Ponferrada for a further 11km. The road passes through a modern tunnel after which there are signs to Tunel Romano de Montefurado (Roman Tunnel of
Montefurado).

During the 1st century the Romans diverted the course of the river Sil in order to extract gold from the river bed. To do this they excavated a tunnel, 400m long by 19m wide and 17m high. The tunnel dissects a 3km meander at its narrowest point, this allowed the Romans to drain the meander and collect the gold deposits from the river bed.

If you decide to follow the same route you will probably be looking forward to morning refreshments by now, as we were, and I know just the place. Sitting on a hilltop overlooking the town of O Barco is the Hotel Pazo do Castro. We took a seat under the covered terrace and ordered a cup of coffee. The more adventurous might like to try a glass of Viña Godeval: a fruity and acidic white wine from the area. We relaxed for a while soaking up the magnificent views across the valley.

Originally called Pazo do Florez, the hotel takes its name from the town of O Castro where it is situated. The house and its adjoined chapel were built in 1630 at the request of Don Pedro de Losada y Quiroga. In the latter half of the twentieth century it was declared a building of artistic and historical interest. Shortly after this the property was restored and converted into a luxury hotel

Feeling rested and refreshed we continued on. The road climbs steadily into the mountains before
slowly ascending. We drove through a series of three tunnels, the last of which marks the border with the province of Castile and Leon. Immediately after passing through the final tunnel we turned right, signposted Las Medulas. Although Las Medulas is not on the official Camino Frances, it would be a travesty to travel all this way and not visit this UNESCO World Heritage Site. To fully appreciate the unique landscape, head for the Mirador de Orellan. 

Mining began here after the conquest of Augustus in 25BC and quickly became the most important gold mine in the Roman empire. The spectacular landscape resulted from the use of the Ruina Montium mining technique. Using aqueducts from the nearby mountains and a series of reducing diameter pipes, they created high pressure jets of water that literally power-washed gold deposits out of the surrounding sedimentary rock deposits.

At its height, 60,000 free workers were employed in its extraction, removing 20,000 Roman pounds of gold every year. In total, the mines were worked for over 250 years extracting more than 5,000,000 Roman pounds (1,650,000 kg) of gold.

Before continuing on to Ponferrada, why not stop for lunch in the village of Orellan. The restaurant El Lagar provides a reasonably priced, three course, menu del dia which includes refreshments.The homemade deserts are a real treat. I can highly recommend the tarta de castañas (chestnut tart) and do try the local El Bierzo red wine. The house red is a full bodied mencia: inky red with deep fruity flavours and long lasting tannins.

The final stop of the day was El Castillo de los Templarios (Castle of the Knights Templar) in Ponferrada.

The castle is open from 11 am until 2 pm and from 4:30 pm until 8:30 pm Tuesday to Saturday and from 11 am until 2 pm Sundays and fiestas; but closed all day Monday.

As with many strategically important sites, fortifications here date back thousands of years. However; in 1178 king Fernando II of Leon allowed the Templar Order to build a castle in the town in exchange for the protection of pilgrims on their journey to Santiago de Compostela. Give or take a few local squabbles, the Templar knights stayed on the site for another 200 years.

Over recent years the castle has undergone major restoration with many parts having been rebuilt. Before heading back home to Campo Verde why not take a stroll into Ponferrada's picturesque old town, you won’t be disappointed. 
 
Copyright © 2009 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain

My second tour in this series begins with a leisurely start at our holiday rental property, Campo Verde. Sympathetically restored in 2007/08, this traditional Galician farmhouse maintains many original features whilst incorporating all the luxuries of modern living: the perfect place to start a new day; but don’t take my word for it, here’s just one of many guestbook comments.

The owners have produced an immaculate holiday home as a result of high quality building, superb finishes and an incredibly knowledgeable attention to detail. Their own descriptions of the property are understated.
This is five star and sets the standard.

Today’s Camino Secrets are situated along the Camino Francés or French Route: arguably the most popular of all the camino routes. 

Leaving the village of Vilatan we follow the sign for Monforte de Lemos. From here we take the road heading towards the provincial capital Lugo. After 33km we enter the town of Sarria: a bustling, modern
town. For walkers on a tight time schedule, Sarria is one of the most popular starting points on the entire camino. 

To obtain a Compostela certificate, certifying that you have completed an official pilgrimage, walkers and those travelling on horseback, need to complete a minimum distance of 100km. At exactly 112km from Santiago, Sarria is ideally situated; but pilgrims starting from here will inevitably miss out on one of the most beautiful villages along the Camino Francés, Samos. 
 
The village of Samos is less than 12km east of Sarria. Its focal point, the restored Monastery of San Xulian, rests comfortably on the banks of the Rio Sarria and is one of Galicia’s must-see places. A guided tour takes about an hour and admission is a paltry 3 euros. Tours start at 10 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. from Monday to Saturday and at 4:30 p.m. on Sunday and fiesta days.

The monastery was founded in the 6th century and belongs to the Benedictine Order. Its heyday came during the Middle Ages but a devastating fire in 1558 led to its decline. After the fire the monastery was
completely rebuilt but failed to regain its regional importance. In 1951 another fire destroyed the cloisters, this time caused by careless monks distilling the locally produced spirit, aguadiente. Once again the monastery was rebuilt.

The current church is in the Baroque style, built between 1734 and 1748. The interior is incredibly light and airy for a church of this style: due in part to eight windows in the central dome which radiate daylight into the darkest corners.

The monastery itself has two cloisters. The small cloister was built between 1539 and 1582 by Pedro
Rodriguez a native of the town of Monforte de Lemos.

The Great cloister was built between 1685 and 1689 and is the largest in Spain at over 3000m² with each of its sides measuring over 54m in length. 

It’s known as ‘The Father Feijoo’ after its designer: a statue of whom forms the centre-piece of the beautifully manicured gardens. The interior walls on the first floor of the cloisters are stunning: decorated with murals depicting the life of San Bieito. The paintings are the work of three artists; Enrique Navara, Celia Cortes, and Carlos Rodriguez. The artistry of these murals cannot be overstated.

Today the monastery is a college of Theology and Philosophy for monks of the Benedictine order. Any trip to Galicia would not be complete without visiting this amazing building. For more photos of this stunning monastery visit the Samos gallery.

The conclusion of our guided tour coincided with lunchtime. There are a number of restaurants along the roadside heading back towards Sarria and many more in the town; but we decided to stay in the village. At the back of the monastery is Hostal Vitoria, (c/Salvador 4, 27260, Samos, Lugo +34 982 546 022). The restaurant serves a reasonably priced menu del dia based on traditional Galician recipes.

After a delicious lunch we headed back to Sarria and on to our final destination of the day, Portomarin a mere 90km from Santiago.

It’s difficult to believe that the present town of Portomarin is just over 50 years old. The original town was submerged after the completion of the river Miño dam at Belesar. The plans for the dam began in 1956 and by 1962 the village had been moved, stone-by-stone, to it present location.

Centrepiece of the new town is the Iglesia de San Juan (Church of Saint John) also known as San Nicolas. It’s a temple-fortress built by the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem in the 13th century in a Romanesque style with design features of both a church and a castle.

Cafes and bars line the street to the main square and although the tapas here aren’t free, it’s worth taking a break in the picturesque main square. Relax in the afternoon sunshine and watch pilgrims as they wander through the town. 

As the afternoon sun descends in the west, it’s time to head back to Campo Verde. By the time we arrive back, we'll have taken a round trip of 135km and we’ll be home in plenty of time to watch the sun setting over Monte Faro while enjoying a refreshing glass of locally produced Albariño. Until next time cheers!

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain

During medieval times, El Camino de Santiago or The Way of St. James was one of the most popular Christian pilgrimages. From the Middle Ages onward the popularity of the route declined, reaching a low point of less than 1000 annual pilgrims during the late 70’s and early 80’s. Since then, the pilgrimage has undergone an international revival; today the route attracts almost 200,000 participants every year.

Over the next few weeks, I’ll be uncovering some of the Camino’s secret places: those, ‘off the beaten track’ locations overlooked by many tourist guides. The starting point for all my discoveries is the sleepy
village of Vilatan, in the province of Lugo. Here you’ll find the luxury farmhouse rental, Campo Verde: quality accommodation for the discerning traveller. Its central location provides the ideal base from which to explore Galicia and northern Portugal.

My first outing takes me 18 km from Vilatan, to Monforte de Lemos: the gently beating heart of the Ribeira Sacra wine region. Initial impressions are one of a bustling modern town with busy roads and dated apartment blocks but dig a little deeper and you’ll find a rich history and proud culture. Lively cafes line both sides of Rua Cardenal, creating a lively atmosphere as they spill out onto the pedestrianized street. Meandering slowly through the town is the river Cabe. On bright, sunny days, colourful reflections dapple the cool water. Following its course are tree lined paths that attract a vast array of visiting water fowl. 

This picturesque town forms a welcoming stopover along The Winter Way of the camino: a route favoured by pilgrims during the winter months to avoid the snow covered peaks around O Cebreiro. With a population of under 20,000, the town of Monforte is in fact a city: an honour bestowed on it by King Alfonso XII in 1885.

The city skyline is dominated by the Torre da Homenaxe or Homage Tower, built between the 13th and 15th centuries. In its shadow, local peasant farmers swore an oath of allegiance to their rulers the Counts of Lemos; giving the tower its name.  Next to this stands the Palace of the Counts of Lemos and the 17th century monastery of San Vincente do Pino. After years of neglect, both these buildings were restored and opened in 2004 as the Parador of Monforte (Luis Góngora e Argote s/n, Monforte de Lemos +34 982 418 484).

Below these impressive monuments lies a labyrinth of narrow streets and paved alleyways that form the old town. Head for the 16th century Romanesque bridge and take a seat outside the café bar Cantón de Bailen (Pza Dr. Goyanes +34 982 405 004). Enjoy a mouth watering array of traditional and regional tapas and sample a glass of the local wine. My choice would be Peza do Rei Blanco. Made predominantly from the local Godello grape, it’s a refreshing young white wine with a hint of green apples and a touch of candied lemon. It’s an excellent accompaniment to a thick wedge of freshly cooked tortilla.

On the opposite side of the bridge, which spans the river Cabe, is the convent of the Clarissa nuns: a working convent that houses the Museum of Sacred Art. This collection of religious artefacts is regarded as one of the best in Spain and underlines the importance of the town during the Middle Ages.

But perhaps Monforte’s most architecturally impressive building is the 16th century college of Nuestra Señora la Antigua, known locally as El Escolapios. Designed by Jesuit priests, the central part of the
college is dedicated to a high domed church. Today, the former sacristy is home to a small museum of fine art including paintings by El Greco.

Later that evening, I head for Manuel Bistró (c/duquesa de alba 62, +34 982 402 747). Manuel, the owner and head chef, welcomes each guest personally and provides an excellent selection of regional and international cuisine. The perfect place to indulge in Galicia’s famed beef. Fillet steak cooked al punto with fois gras and accompanied with a rich port sauce: a fitting end to my first adventure.
 
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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website at http://www.getaway-galicia.com 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, follow this link for your national store. http://bit.ly/188lOj2

Visit Craig’s website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk

Or join in the fun on Facebook http://facebook.com/craigbriggs.spain