Hidden deep within the Galician countryside is one of the oldest Christian monasteries in Spain, San Pedro de Rocas (St. Peter of the Rocks). Its foundation stone credits seven men with its construction in the year 573 AD.

The drive to this ancient monument took us across the river Sil. Narrow country lanes meandered through pine forests and pastures. Halfway down the Sil valley we passed through the abandoned village of A Chaira before crossing the river. The steep ascent affords amazing views over the Encoro de Santo Estevo (reservoir).

Just outside the town of Luintra we stumbled across a sign which read ‘Necrópole megalítica de Mámoas do Moura’ (Neolithic cemetery). Curiosity aroused, we turned off the main road and followed the sign. Within a few hundred metres, we found ourselves on a high plateau surrounded by ancient stone monuments. The landscape was littered with Neolithic megaliths.

Today these prehistoric artefacts are referred to as dolmen. On this site, they date from 4,500 BC to 2,000 BC. To put this into context, Stonehenge was built between 3,100 and 2,500 BC. The original structures consisted of two or more upright stones supporting a roof or capstone; covered with a mound of earth. Hence their local name: mamoa is Galician for breast.

Archaeologists are unsure of their exact purpose but believe they were burial chambers. For the smaller, older dolmen this seems a reasonable assumption; but surveying this vast landscape of fallen giants, I find it difficult to believe that these huge structures were built solely to house the dead. Some of the capstones are more than five metres in diameter while others have perfect circles chiselled into the solid granite.

Whatever their purpose, this site held great significance for the ancient inhabitants of this land. At 750 metres above sea level (2,500 feet), the views over the surrounding countryside are breathtaking. If you ever wanted to feel close to your God, this would be the place to come.

Eventually, I managed to tear myself away from this magical place. Half an hour later we were driving up a narrow track, winding its way through dense deciduous woodland. We entered a small car park. A notice board read, ‘Monasterio de San Pedro de Rocas’. Gravel chippings crunched underfoot as we made our way towards the bell tower, perched atop a natural rock, 20 metres high.

Inside this 6th century Christian temple are three naves, carved out of the solid rock. In the ceiling of the central nave, a hole allows light to filter into this manmade cave. On the floor of the church and atrium, numerous tombs have been excavated out of the granite.

Located next door and housed in an old manor house is the visitors centre. There’s a shop selling regional wine and locally produced craft items. In other rooms, interactive exhibits show places of interest and give detailed information about the monastery.

The Ribeira Sacra is steeped in history and overflowing with hidden treasures. It’s a landscape full of surprises, where a drive in the countryside brings with it a new experience at every turn in the road.  

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Here in Galicia, the annual grape harvest is a time for celebration; the culmination of six months hard work. This year is different. Many growers are counting the cost of un año fatal. 

For many, the season began back in February or early March. Last year’s fruiting canes were pruned ready for the coming season.

By the beginning of April the first buds had begun to burst into life.

From busting buds to bright-green foliage; by the end of May the vineyard looked full of life.

The end of June saw young grapes swell in the warm sunshine.

Unseasonably damp weather in mid July brought with it black rot, the vinicultural equivalent of the Black Death. Facing the prospect of a complete loss we worked tirelessly to save what we could.

The final cost of this destructive disease resulted in an 80% reduction on last year’s yield. For us this is heartbreaking; for others, financially disastrous. Some have fared much better but others, even worse. 

Work began early on harvest day (vendimia). We woke to a bright and dry morning. Thin veils of mist clung to low lying valleys as the morning sun struggled to break through wispy clouds. The previous
day we’d collected the empty fruit crates from the bodega (wine cellar), ready for the day ahead.

Armed with a sharp pair of secateurs the picking began. The ground was damp from a night-time downpour, so too was the foliage. The slightest tug on overhead vines brought with it a shower of water droplets.

By 10:30 am the red Mencia grapes were picked. We packed them into the trailer and sped off to the bodega. I couldn’t wait to use my new machine: crushing and destemming in one process. I only wish there’d been more to crush.

Once the must (grape juice) is safely stored in the vat the science begins. From a sample of juice I tested the sugar content (brix): a little low but easy to adjust, next the TA (tartaric acid) and finally the pH. Two years ago I inadvertently put my decimal point one place to the right and killed 180 litres of white wine. I checked my result; then double checked, just to make sure. A solution of potassium metabisulphite stuns the natural yeast. Twenty four hours later I added commercially produced wine yeast to kick-start the fermentation process.     

For the time being, work in the vineyard is at an end. The vine leaves will soon turn rusty-red and golden-brown before falling to the ground. Weather permitting there’ll be one final tilling of the soil before year end.

Attention now turns to the fruit: from grapevines to delicious wines. The disappointing harvest is history; the next challenge lies ahead. 
 
Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Many borders are simply lines drawn on a map, but not in Galicia. The canyon of the river Sil, dividing the provinces of Lugo and Ourense, must surely be one of the most spectacular borders in the whole of
Spain. Watching over this impressive geological fault line is the town of Castro Caldelas; its medieval castle dominating the surrounding area. 

There’s something quite appealing about scaling ancient ramparts and re-enacting medieval battles, albeit in ones imagination. When the opportunity arose, we jumped at the chance. 

The drive from Monforte de Lemos to Castro Caldelas is one of the most spectacular in the area. The route took us south along the LU-903 to the village of Doade. Staring out across the valley, the town of
Castro Caldelas is clearly visible on the other side of the canyon. From Doade the road drops steeply down the side of the gorge, twisting and turning as is carves a route through terraced vineyards.

Once across the river the scenery changes: ancient woodland clings to the side of the valley. Vineyards are rare; restricted to a few south-facing patches of land. As the road climbs we passed through the
picturesque villages of A Abeleda and O Pomar. The final few kilometres are by far the steepest. After about half an hour we entered the town. 

On our left was the Santuario de los Remedios, a 19th century church featuring impressive twin towers.
Opposite this is the Praza do Prado. We parked in the square and made our way through the narrow, paved streets towards the castle.

Legend has it that the ruler of this ancient fortress or castro lost a battle to the Lord of Lima. In order to save himself and his family, the defeated ruler offered the Lord one of his three daughters to which he replied¿cal delas? (what of them); from that day forth the place has been known as Castro Caldelas. 
 
Legends aside, this mountainous area has been inhabited for over 4500 years: a fact supported by the discovery of megalithic burial chambers. 
 
During the Roman occupation, between 137 BC and 19 BC the town became an important stopover on the Via Nova (The Roman road from Braga in Portugal to Astorga in Castile & Leon).

The centre piece of the town is a medieval castle, constructed by Pedro Fernández de Castro between
1336 and 1343. Its strategic importance is clearly illustrated by the number of previous owners. Over the entrance are no fewer than four different coats of arms; the Osorio (two wolves), the Castro (six circular forms), the Kingdom of León (a rampant lion) and the Kingdom of Castile (a castle). Even the Greek letter tau, symbol of the Order of the Knights Templar, is inscribed on the clock tower.

The views from the castle walls are stunning: mile after mile of rolling hills, deep valleys, and distant mountains fading into an endless sky. From the clock tower on one side to the keep on the other, every aspect affords outstanding views over the Ribeira Sacra and the Sierra de Mazaira mountains.

The torre or keep, houses the oldest written document in Galicia. Dated 1228 and signed by Alfonso IX, it granted certain privileges to residents of the town. Its discovery was extremely significant. All other documents relating to the town were destroyed in 1809 when Napoleonic troops set fire to the castle in retaliation for a local uprising.

The roof of the torre is probably the best place to appreciate the Iglesia de Santa Isabel (Church of St. Elizabeth). Dating from the 16t century, it’s the oldest church in the town and stands at the edge of an outcrop overlooking the Sil canyon.

Today, Castro Caldelas is a quiet, friendly town with breathtaking views over the surrounding countryside; but its long and turbulent history makes it a fascinating place to explore.  
 

Vine Watch – week 24

After much deliberation and days of testing, we’ve chosen the date for this year’s vendimia (grape harvest). We are gearing up for Sunday the 21st of September. The only obstacle might be the weather. The forecast is not favourable but meteorologists are not renowned for their accuracy.

It’s said that Melbourne in Australia can experience four seasons in one day, here in Galicia those same seasons can occur within an hour. Keep your fingers crossed. The countdown has begun.    

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Does paradise exist?

The council of Sober certainly believes so. Their latest tourist guide proudly boasts, ‘O Paraiso Existe’ (Paradise Exists). Its publication coincided with the completion of a series of upgrades to the nine viewing platform along the river Sil.

If their dower, green leaflet was anything to go by, it seemed unlikely that we would discover a portal to the Promised Land. Undeterred we decided to test the council’s claim and headed out in search of paradise. 

Travelling across the municipality from west to east, our journey began at Xabrega. Here, a narrow staircase of natural stone climbs around the hillside. Oak trees provided shade from the afternoon sun and fallen acorns cracked underfoot as we climbed the steps. As we reached the top the vast panorama opened out. We clambered past a small vineyard and up to a low walled viewpoint. From here we stared out across a small lake, formed by the Santo Estevo dam. On the far shore, pine forests and deciduous woodland blanket the valley.

So far so good: Sober’s claim was living up to its billing.

Second stop on the tour was Os Chancis. When it comes to this location, we’re a tad biased. After all, this is the site of our favourite summertime bar. The viewpoint is situated on the hillside, just above the bar. A steep pathway leads passed terraced vineyards and up to a wooden pergola. The view from here is breathtaking.

If ever there was a roadmap to paradise, we were surely on it.

As the crow flies, or in this case a soaring eagle, the next viewpoint at A Cividade is just over 2 km's upstream. By car it’s 18: the last 3 of which are along an unmade track. This modern viewing platform was designed by the architect Isabel Aguirre in 2012. The structure overhangs the canyon like a giant diving board giving visitors spectacular views both upstream and down.

A short drive from here is the platform at O Boqueiriño. On the opposite side of the canyon is the abandoned Monastery of Santa Cristina, its conical spire and red tiled roof appear to be floating in a sea of ancient woodland.

Santiorxo marked the halfway point of our tour. Back in July, this viewpoint was the venue for a moonlit concert. The hypnotic melody of a solo cellist echoing across the canyon provided a moment of pure magic. Today we were alone, almost 2000 feet above sea level, staring out across an endless landscape.

By the time we reached viewpoint number six at Cadeiras, we were ready for a drink. An ice-cold beer on a warm summer’s day really hit the spot. It almost felt as though we’d reached paradise but there were still three more to go.

We headed towards the village of Amandi. From here the road winds its way down the valley through row after row of lush-green vines, laden with inky-red grapes. About halfway down is the Os Chelos viewpoint. The valley here is far less severe than downstream; as such, this is one of the few places where vines grow on both sides of the river.

From here we were able to take the Aba Sacra route along the valley. It’s a single lane road that offers travellers magnificent views of the river as it hugs the contours of the valley, twisting and turning as it cuts a path through the vineyards.

Our penultimate stop was Soutochao: a large outcrop surrounded with terraced vineyards rising from the river. A dusty track runs along the top of the ridge, ending at the viewpoint. By now, the afternoon sun was casting long shadows on both sides of the valley with only the most prized vineyards still bathed in bright light.

Travelling from west to east, we’d saved the most outstanding viewpoint until last. All those who visit Pena do Castelo will surely know that paradise does exist: right here, right now.

The area of Galicia known as the Ribeira Sacra is blessed with breathtaking beauty at every turn but if you’re searching for paradise, the municipality of Sober will definitely lead you there. 
 

Vine Watch – week 23

This week we took delivery of a brand new destemmer and crusher. Come harvest time, this one piece of equipment will save us over 50 hours of painstaking, backbreaking, mind-numbing work.

In years gone by, we have removed all the stems by hand before pouring the must into the vats. This new addition will crush the grapes and remove the stems in one process. Excitement levels are rising.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Horse ownership is on the increase. 

At least it is in this quiet corner of Spain. To be perfectly honest, horses aren’t really my thing: a nasty bite from a child-eating donkey put paid to that. 
 
As a boy, growing up in the shadow of Yorkshire’s satanic mills, the last thing on my mind were rosettes and dressage. Horsy types drove Range Rovers, spoke like the queen and doted over daddy’s little princess. The closest I came to the world of show jumping was sitting around the telly at Christmas; cheering Harvey Smith over the great wall at Olympia. 
 
That said, there’s something quite compelling about the raw power, grace, and beauty of a herd of horses galloping free across open countryside. 

Melanie on the other hand adores them. As a teenager she would happily work all day at her local stable for little more than a few hours riding. For this reason alone, I found myself agreeing to visit this year’s Feira do Carballo de O’ Saviñao (Horse Fiesta).

As if to illustrate my earlier claim, this relatively new fiesta began seven years ago in the village of Escairon. From humble beginnings, it now attracts contestants and visitors from all over the area. The fiesta is a two day affair. The main spectator events are held on the final afternoon. 

As we drove through the sleepy village of Escairon, the only hint of a village fiesta was a sagging
banner hanging limply from two lamp posts on opposite sides of the high street. We parked the car and strolled towards the recreation area. Overhanging fruit trees provided patches of shade as we walked along. Fallen figs, squashed under foot, littered the pavement and ripe plums were hanging tantalisingly out of reach.

The focal point for the first event was the village cattle market. A crowd of several hundred were gathered around a makeshift manége. My earlier preconceptions of watching daddy’s little princess, clad in jodhpurs and polished boots; parading around a field, were quickly dispelled.  

Within the sandy paddock were half a dozen young men wearing jeans, T-shirts, and their favourite trainers. Two judges looked on as the men walked and then trotted their trusty steeds up and down the paddock. I could tell from Melanie’s facial expressions that most lacked the handling etiquette
associated with such events. To the winners went the bragging rights: rosettes were not required.

The next event, El Galop, moved across the road to the recreation area. By now, these same young men had saddled their mounts and were ready to do battle. A makeshift race course had been built around the football field using a number of reinforcing rods and a roll of plastic cordon. Health and safety consisted of a few bales of straw placed strategically in front of the goal posts. This didn’t bode well for the security of rider or horse. 

There’s something about speed and the perceived invincibility of youth that brings the worst out in young men. In all, eight riders volunteered to compete in this Ben Hur-style dash around the arena. Out of these, just two thought it manly enough to don protective headgear. The rest of this motley crew looked more like football fans than young men preparing to hurtle around the pitch on uncontrollable steeds. This was horse racing at its most primitive and the audience knew it.

Each race contained three competitors. Twice around the track and the race was won. The event was an accident waiting to happen and we weren’t kept waiting long. On the final bend of the final lap of the third race, the inevitable happened. Two horses, tussling for position, collided. The inside nag lost its footing and both horse and rider tumbled to the ground. 
 
A sharp intake of breath hushed the spectators. The young rider lay trapped; leg caught fast under his mount. Quickly, the horse sprang to its feet releasing the jockey. The young man rose gingerly and hobbled bravely into the centre of the pitch. He sank to the grass clutching his ankle. Without delay, his friend sprinted across the field in search of medical assistance. Moments later he returned, tossed him a carrier bag full of ice and left him to his own devises. Ten minutes later he was back racing: slightly less gung-ho but pride intact.

The final event of the fiesta was by far the most professional. Billed as, ‘The Horse Whisperer’ Santi Serra Camps touring show provided a breathtaking display of equine handling. By now the audience had swelled to well over a thousand. It’s difficult to imagine a greater contrast from earlier events to this polished and skilful performance.

We’ve already pencilled this fiesta in for next year. If you’re in the area you’d do well to do the same.  

Vine Watch – week 22

This week, we’ve been busy week in the bodega (wine cellar). With less than three weeks to go until we harvest this year’s grapes, it was time to bottle what remained of last year’s wine and clean the Vats in readiness for this year’s.

With sugar levels in the grapes rising daily, deterring our cheeky feathered friends becomes a priority. To refresh your memory on this annual battle why not take a look at last year’s blog post – The #Tweeting of Angry Birds

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

The province of Ourense, in the south of Galicia, has the distinction of being the only landlocked province in the region. That said, finding a waterfront eatery is never a problem. Galicia is well known for its wet winters. It’s hardly surprising then that dozens of lakes can be found scattered throughout the area. Some provide water for public consumption and others, along the river Sil, produce clean and renewable hydro-electricity.

One of my favourite lakes is the Encoro de San Martiño: a vast body of water bordered to the southwest by the village of Petín and to the northeast by the town of A Rúa.

The history of the area dates back to the Celts. In the first century BC, Romans occupied the land. Petín and A Rúa came to prominence as an important river crossing around 77 AD following the completion
of the Via Nova (The Roman road from Braga in Portugal to Astorga in Castile & Leon).

Leaving the careterra nacional (N-120), we drove down towards A Rúa turning right at the first roundabout. From here we could see the modern road bridge spanning the river Sil. Sitting alongside this is the old river crossing known as Puente de la Cigarrosa. This Romanesque-style bridge dates back to the 18th century. In the spring of 1809, during the Napoleonic invasion, this bridge was the scene of a vicious and bloody attack. History records that the young women of Petín rose up against the French troops, from nine in the morning until sunset, inflicting heavy losses on their enemy. Today the area is far more peaceful.

The village of Petín is centred on a small square. Three bars compete for trade. During the summer months, street-side seating gives the place a very French feel: quite surprising given its past history. Narrow lanes lead away from the square. Strolling around the alleyways feels like you’ve stepped back
in time. Head for the church: its spire can be seen peering down over rooftops. From here it’s a short walk to the paseo or promenade that runs along the edge of the lake.

The air felt warm and heavy as we stared out across the lake. On the far shore, we could just make out our lunchtime destination. A rumbling tummy was the only incentive we needed to hop back in the car and nip around to the far side.

The covered terrace of the restaurant O Refuxio in O Aguillón, a district of A Rúa, provides the perfect place from which to enjoy this beautiful setting. All meals are freshly prepared and well worth the wait. On this occasion we chose the homemade hamburgers accompanied with proper chips: quite a rare treat in these parts.

While we soaked up the scenery and tucked into our burger, small children gathered around an old man sitting at the lakeside fishing. Hungry parents looked on, grateful for a short intermission.

After lunch we strolled around the edge of the lake before heading out towards Viana do Bolo. We’d hoped to find one of the many bodegas open and stock-up on the local wine. This area falls under the Valdeorras D.O. (denominacion de origin), and is famous for its fruity white wines made from the godello grape. Unfortunately, none were open but we did stumble across a beautiful church on the outskirts of
La Caseta.

Spain has some of the most picturesque coastline in Europe, but not all waterfront eating relies on the Mediterranean to provide stunning views. The next time you’re in the area take a look at Encoro de San
Martiño, you won’t be disappointed.

Vine Watch – week 21

With the grapes changing daily my thoughts turn to the harvest. Picking when the grapes reach their optimum ripeness will ultimately determine the quality of the finished wine.

When I first started making wine, 8 years ago, the consensus among my neighbours was that picking began two weeks after Amandi had picked. The Amandi vineyards are among the most prestigious in the Ribeira Sacra DO. Located on the steep valley sides of the river Sil, the grapes benefit from a favourable micro-climate.

These days I determine my own vendimia (grape harvest) date based on science. By testing the grapes for sugar content (brix) and acid levels (acid and pH) I can calculate the optimum ripeness of the grapes.

Over the next few weeks I’ll conduct a weekly test on a sample batch. As ripeness approaches, these tests will become more frequent until ideal levels are reached and we can finally gather in our crop.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Earlier in the week, Alberto Nunez Feijoo president of the Galician government, made a significant announcement. The municipality of Sober, in the province of Lugo, would from this day forth be officially
recognised as an area of Galician tourism (Municipio Turistico Gallego).

To avoid any confusion, the correct pronunciation of Sober is ‘Sob’ (as in to weep) and ‘air’ (as in the air we breathe). The mayor of Sober, Luis Fernández Guitián was overjoyed with the announcement. He was later quoted as saying, “This award will form the cornerstone of our campaign to have the Ribeira Sacra recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site”.

Throughout Galicia there are 43 municipalities officially recognised as areas of Galician tourism. Of these, only 11 are situated in the province of Lugo. 

As a resident of this outstandingly beautiful municipality, this prestigious award came as no surprise; perhaps I’m biased. I’ll let you decide.

The president of the Galician government noted eight main reasons for awarding Sober this honour.

1. The increase in the number of hotels since 2010

There are three main hotels in the area. Pick of the bunch is Casa Grande de Rosende. Dating back
to 1511 this Pazo or manor house was extended to its current size towards the end of the 18th century. In 2005 the hotel was completely restored after a disastrous fire.

2. The presence of 35 bodegas (wineries) in the area.

The vineyards of the Amandi are internationally recognised as one of the most difficult terrains for growing and harvesting grapes. The unique micro-climate found in the valley of the river Sil produces rich fruity red wine, with naturally high alcohol levels.
The actual number of bodegas is probably 100 times that. Stroll through any village in the area and I’m sure someone will invite you into theirs to share a glass or two.

3. Six recognised hiking trails.

It’s nigh-on impossible to travel through Galicia without stumbling across the scallop shell symbol; sign of the Camino de Santiago. Sober is no exception. Part of the Alternative Winter route passes through the municipality on its way to Monforte de Lemos. Other walking trails connect medieval churches or pre-historic petroglyphs: carved into rocks by ancient Celtic communities.

4. Nine viewing points (Miradores) of outstanding natural beauty.

Everyone has their favourite and I’m no exception. In my opinion, you can’t beat Pena do Castelo. At an altitude of over 2000 feet (627m) the panorama takes your breath away. Far below, the river Sil meaners slowly downstream. Terraced vineyards rise from its banks, climbing like a staircase towards the sky and tall mountains fade into the distant horizon. To visit Galicia and miss the beauty and majesty of Sober and the Ribeira Sacra, would be a travesty.

5. A rich cultural heritage including the Amandi wine fiesta (Feira do Viño de Amandi).
 
This annual event gains in popularity every year. It’s easy to see why. Visitors can sample delicious fruity wines, produced in this unique climate, completely free of charge: inky-red Mencia and crisp white Godello – what a treat.

6. The tourist train in Doade.

This bright-yellow, road-going tourist train looks slightly out of place among ancient architecture and breath-taking countryside. It offers visitors the opportunity to ride through the vineyards of the Amandi and see first-hand the challenges facing the area’s viniculturists. The tour ends with a wine tasting at the Regina Viarum winery, one of the most prestigious in the area.

7. River Cruises along the Sil.

Six different vessels ply their trade on the river Sil. Most take about two hours to cruise along this amazing river and through the fjord-like canyon. My personal favourite departs from Os Chancis. This intimate cruise, for up to 10 guests, offers an onboard wine tasting as you drift quietly through the canyon.

8. The ancient potter’s art in the village of Gundivos.

Fifty years ago this traditional skill was almost lost to the ravages of time and economic migration. The
village of Gundivos has a long tradition of manufacturing pottery: practical everyday items like jugs and bowls. Their distinctive black glaze makes them unique in appearance and much sought after as designer
pieces.

Today’s politicians are often derided for their apparent aloofness and self interest but the mayor of Sober, Luis Fernández Guitián has proved through his actions that he cares passionately about the area
and community he presides over. Sober has a great deal to offer, not only to Galicia but Spain as a whole. Make sure you visit us soon, you won’t be disappointed.


Vine Watch – week 20

The wait goes on. Favourable weather is helping to plump up the fruit. Work continues daily to remove dead and diseased grapes from the maturing bunches. Hard work now will enhance the quality of the finished wine.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

*************************************************************************

Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

In 2012, just over 900,000 tourists visited Galicia (source: Institute of Tourism). Of those, less than 200,000 were pilgrims walking El Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James). It’s hardly surprising then, that when I mention I live in Galicia most people say, “Where?”, and even less surprising that any reference to the Camino is followed by, “What’s the Camino?” 

El Camino de Santiago was one of the most important catholic pilgrimages of the Middle Ages. Pilgrims would walk from the French border to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela to visit the shrine of St. James: a distance of over 800 kilometres. Nowadays, there are many different routes to Santiago and many different reasons for undertaking the challenge.

To encourage tourism and increase the number of pilgrims walking the Way, a minimum distance of 100 kilometres was introduced. This is policed using a Credencial or Pilgrim’s Passport: stamped along the route at churches and overnight hostels (Albergue’s or Refugio’s). On production of a completed passport, at the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago, a Compostela or certificate is issued proving that the holder has completed the Camino.

Unfortunately, not everyone has the time, inclination or ability to walk even the minimum distance. Besides which, the romantic notion of wandering down rural pathways; enjoying the stunning countryside is far removed from the daily challenge to body and soul. The opportunities to stop, take
breath, and actually get to know a place, are few and far between.

Galicia has far more to offer visitors than just the Camino; but to visit the area and fail to experience it would be an opportunity missed. Signs for the Camino are found throughout the region. They take the
form of a scallop shell or contemporary representation of one. The choice of short walks is endless but
one of my favourites is the five and a half kilometre stretch from Negrelos to the medieval bridge of Pedroso on the eastern edge of the province of Pontevedra.

The starting point of the walk is the church in the district of Negrelos: an excellent example of Romanesque architecture. The views over the surrounding countryside, from within the church grounds, are beautiful and so typical of Galicia: rolling hills, green pastures, and scattered patches of forests, all stitched together with a web of dry-stone walls.

The EP-6203 is a single track lane that winds its way through this idyllic countryside. Old, stone farmhouses are dotted along its course and cattle graze lazily in fertile pastures. Occasional shade is provided by ancient woodland of oak and chestnut.

Before long you’ll reach the village of Pazos. A slight detour from the road leads to the centre of the village and the church of Pedroso. Work began on its construction at the beginning of the 13th century and other than the occasional roof restoration has remained unchanged.

The next village along is Laxas: a time capsule of rural life. It’s a quaint village set in the heart of a farming community. From here it’s a short walk to the bridge of Pedroso. Built in the 12th century, this medieval bridge has stood the test of time. It’s quite a sobering thought to stand in the middle and consider the lives of those who, for the past 800 years, have walked this same route.

Below this ancient crossing flows the Rio Arnego. To experience the Camino, stop, close your eyes, and listen to the babble of pilgrims drifting down the ages. 

Vine Watch – week 19

The grapes continue to change in both colour and size. The reds change from pink to inky red. The whites loose their pea-green appearance and become more translucent as they begin to swell. With just over a month to go, they’re on the final stretch of the growing season. All we ask for now is sun, sun, sun.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

The town of San Clodio is situated on the eastern edge of the area known as the Ribeira Sacra in Galicia. It’s a small town with a long and sometimes brutal past. Throughout its history, this small parish has formed an important link in the region’s communications, sitting as it does on the banks of the river Sil. On the opposite riverbank lies the town of Quiroga, gateway to the O’ Courel.     

In the 1st century BC Romans ruled, brought here by the area’s rich gold deposits. Such was their desire for this most precious of metals that, a few kilometres upstream at Montefurado, they excavated a 400 metre long tunnel to divert the river’s natural course. The result left a three kilometre meander isolated from the river, enabling the Romans to extract the gold directly from the dry riverbed.

During the Middle Ages, the discovery of the remains of Saint James brought a different type of explorer to the area. Christian pilgrims, en route to Santiago de Compostela, were able to use the infrastructure and communication routes first created by the Romans. The route along the Sil valley, known as the winter route, provided an easier alternative for those travelling from France. 

San Clodio’s most recent history is also its most brutal. During the Napoleonic invasion, many parts of
Galicia remained apathetic to their invaders; indeed, some Spanish generals actively embraced their conquerors. However; pockets of resistance remained, led in many cases by the clergy. 
 
In 1809 resistance fighters ambushed and killed a French officer near the tunnel at Montefurado. Reprisals were swift and merciless. Soon after this attack a troop of French soldiers entered the village of San Clodio. When one local resident insulted the commanding officer by refusing to shout, “Vive la France”, he was summarily executed. What followed were a series of war atrocities to rival any in history. 

The French went on the rampage, slaughtering anyone they found and stealing the village strong box. Villagers took refuge in mountain caves only to be discovered and massacred. In the nearby village of Chenzas a young girl was kidnapped; she was never heard of again. Eyewitness accounts recall carts, laden with corpses, being pulled through the village by oxen. 

But the French didn’t have it all their own way. In the 1950’s, during work to widen the existing railway line, a macabre secret was unearthed. The remains of several French soldiers, still in uniform and carrying their weapons, was discovered.

The arrival of the railroad in 1883 brought a new era of prosperity to the town. Today the station is no more than a quaint building of historical interest. 

Another of the town’s outstanding architectural landmarks is the Ponte de Ferro or Iron Bridge. Construction began in 1883 under the supervision of Pelayo Mancebo. The fact that it is still in daily use is a testament to its design.

Today, San Clodio is a sleepy little town just off the main N-120 highway. It sits in a beautifully tranquil valley, surrounded by mountains. Strolling next to the river or through its quiet streets, it’s difficult to imagine what horrors it has witnessed. The next time you’re driving through the area, take a break and explore the secrets of San Clodio.

Vine Watch – week 18

Work continues daily in the vineyard, removing dead grapes from the maturing bunches and dying foliage infected by the black rot disease. After so much effort and such an excellent start to the season, it’s soul destroying work. This year is all about damage limitation and saving as much fruit as possible.    

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Nestled in the foothills of Monte Faro, on the eastern edge of the province of Pontevedra in Galicia, is the small town of Rodeiro. It’s the type of sleepy, rural backwater that travellers pass through on their
way to somewhere else. It lies in the Val de Camba (Vale of Camba) on the Camino Invierno (winter route of the Camino de Santiago). You could be forgiven for thinking that this is its only claim to fame but dig a little deeper and Rodeiro offers visitors a warm welcome, beautiful architecture, and a great sense of pride in its local heroes; past and present.

The architectural jewel in Rodeiro’s crown is undoubtedly the town hall. It’s situated on the Praza Foi, just off the main street. Although the building is not of major historical significance, it must surely be one of the prettiest ayuntamientos in the whole of Spain.

The town developed around the crossing of two ancient roads. Nowadays, the crossroad has been superseded by a large roundabout. Centrepiece of this circular island is an impressive fountain featuring an intricately carved sculpture of a carro wheel (a traditional two wheeled Galician cart).

Adjacent to this is another marble sculpture. Chiselled from a single piece of local granite, it depicts an elderly couple dressed in local attire. It celebrates the contribution made by those of the 3rd age to the continuing prosperity of the area. The local economy relies heavily on agriculture and in particular milk
production. In common with many rural towns in Galicia, Rodeiro has an ageing population. This statue
seeks to celebrate the sacrifice of ordinary town’s folk whose actions have left a legacy for future generations. Some were lucky and remained in the area to work; others became economic migrants to cities within Spain or in many cases, even further afield.

Across from this stands a fitting memorial to the town’s most famous hero: the aviator Gumersindo Areán Rodriguez. He was born in the nearby village of Pedroso in January 1898. The son of farm labourers, he
went on to become one of the most celebrated Republican pilots of the Spanish civil war. Forced into exile in 1939, he was reunited with his family in 1942 when they fled to Mexico. He remained there until his death in 1974.

Rodeiro clearly feels a historic link to this unsettled period in Spanish history: a point emphasised by the name of our lunchtime restaurant, Meson O’ Guerra (The War). Despite its name the owners of this charming establishment were attentive and friendly.

We started lunch with homemade Spanish tortilla. I followed this with Merluza a la galego: two moist
steaks of hake served with boiled potatoes and drizzled with an oily pimiento sauce. Melanie opted for Lomo a la plancha, thinly sliced steaks of grilled pork served with French fries. We washed it down with a bottle of Viña Costeira: an excellent white from the Ribeiro region in Ourense.

The next time your journey takes you through Rodeiro, set off a little early and take time out to explore this small town with a big heart.

Vine Watch – week 17

There are many drawbacks to working two vineyards in two different villages with two different micro-climates but one very important advantage. When one vineyard is decimated by black rot, there’s a good chance that the other will survive unscathed. 

Thankfully, this has been the case this year. Our second vineyard, just across the valley in Vilamelle, is in good condition. There’s a little bit of insect activity and a small amount of fungal disease but nothing
more than I would expect at this time of year. Harvest quantities are likely to be lower than last year but barring a disaster, we will still be making wine in a few months time.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook