Hidden deep within the Galician countryside is one of the oldest Christian monasteries in Spain, San Pedro de Rocas (St. Peter of the Rocks). Its foundation stone credits seven men with its construction in the year 573 AD.

The drive to this ancient monument took us across the river Sil. Narrow country lanes meandered through pine forests and pastures. Halfway down the Sil valley we passed through the abandoned village of A Chaira before crossing the river. The steep ascent affords amazing views over the Encoro de Santo Estevo (reservoir).

Just outside the town of Luintra we stumbled across a sign which read ‘Necrópole megalítica de Mámoas do Moura’ (Neolithic cemetery). Curiosity aroused, we turned off the main road and followed the sign. Within a few hundred metres, we found ourselves on a high plateau surrounded by ancient stone monuments. The landscape was littered with Neolithic megaliths.

Today these prehistoric artefacts are referred to as dolmen. On this site, they date from 4,500 BC to 2,000 BC. To put this into context, Stonehenge was built between 3,100 and 2,500 BC. The original structures consisted of two or more upright stones supporting a roof or capstone; covered with a mound of earth. Hence their local name: mamoa is Galician for breast.

Archaeologists are unsure of their exact purpose but believe they were burial chambers. For the smaller, older dolmen this seems a reasonable assumption; but surveying this vast landscape of fallen giants, I find it difficult to believe that these huge structures were built solely to house the dead. Some of the capstones are more than five metres in diameter while others have perfect circles chiselled into the solid granite.

Whatever their purpose, this site held great significance for the ancient inhabitants of this land. At 750 metres above sea level (2,500 feet), the views over the surrounding countryside are breathtaking. If you ever wanted to feel close to your God, this would be the place to come.

Eventually, I managed to tear myself away from this magical place. Half an hour later we were driving up a narrow track, winding its way through dense deciduous woodland. We entered a small car park. A notice board read, ‘Monasterio de San Pedro de Rocas’. Gravel chippings crunched underfoot as we made our way towards the bell tower, perched atop a natural rock, 20 metres high.

Inside this 6th century Christian temple are three naves, carved out of the solid rock. In the ceiling of the central nave, a hole allows light to filter into this manmade cave. On the floor of the church and atrium, numerous tombs have been excavated out of the granite.

Located next door and housed in an old manor house is the visitors centre. There’s a shop selling regional wine and locally produced craft items. In other rooms, interactive exhibits show places of interest and give detailed information about the monastery.

The Ribeira Sacra is steeped in history and overflowing with hidden treasures. It’s a landscape full of surprises, where a drive in the countryside brings with it a new experience at every turn in the road.  

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Here in Galicia, the annual grape harvest is a time for celebration; the culmination of six months hard work. This year is different. Many growers are counting the cost of un año fatal. 

For many, the season began back in February or early March. Last year’s fruiting canes were pruned ready for the coming season.

By the beginning of April the first buds had begun to burst into life.

From busting buds to bright-green foliage; by the end of May the vineyard looked full of life.

The end of June saw young grapes swell in the warm sunshine.

Unseasonably damp weather in mid July brought with it black rot, the vinicultural equivalent of the Black Death. Facing the prospect of a complete loss we worked tirelessly to save what we could.

The final cost of this destructive disease resulted in an 80% reduction on last year’s yield. For us this is heartbreaking; for others, financially disastrous. Some have fared much better but others, even worse. 

Work began early on harvest day (vendimia). We woke to a bright and dry morning. Thin veils of mist clung to low lying valleys as the morning sun struggled to break through wispy clouds. The previous
day we’d collected the empty fruit crates from the bodega (wine cellar), ready for the day ahead.

Armed with a sharp pair of secateurs the picking began. The ground was damp from a night-time downpour, so too was the foliage. The slightest tug on overhead vines brought with it a shower of water droplets.

By 10:30 am the red Mencia grapes were picked. We packed them into the trailer and sped off to the bodega. I couldn’t wait to use my new machine: crushing and destemming in one process. I only wish there’d been more to crush.

Once the must (grape juice) is safely stored in the vat the science begins. From a sample of juice I tested the sugar content (brix): a little low but easy to adjust, next the TA (tartaric acid) and finally the pH. Two years ago I inadvertently put my decimal point one place to the right and killed 180 litres of white wine. I checked my result; then double checked, just to make sure. A solution of potassium metabisulphite stuns the natural yeast. Twenty four hours later I added commercially produced wine yeast to kick-start the fermentation process.     

For the time being, work in the vineyard is at an end. The vine leaves will soon turn rusty-red and golden-brown before falling to the ground. Weather permitting there’ll be one final tilling of the soil before year end.

Attention now turns to the fruit: from grapevines to delicious wines. The disappointing harvest is history; the next challenge lies ahead. 
 
Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Many borders are simply lines drawn on a map, but not in Galicia. The canyon of the river Sil, dividing the provinces of Lugo and Ourense, must surely be one of the most spectacular borders in the whole of
Spain. Watching over this impressive geological fault line is the town of Castro Caldelas; its medieval castle dominating the surrounding area. 

There’s something quite appealing about scaling ancient ramparts and re-enacting medieval battles, albeit in ones imagination. When the opportunity arose, we jumped at the chance. 

The drive from Monforte de Lemos to Castro Caldelas is one of the most spectacular in the area. The route took us south along the LU-903 to the village of Doade. Staring out across the valley, the town of
Castro Caldelas is clearly visible on the other side of the canyon. From Doade the road drops steeply down the side of the gorge, twisting and turning as is carves a route through terraced vineyards.

Once across the river the scenery changes: ancient woodland clings to the side of the valley. Vineyards are rare; restricted to a few south-facing patches of land. As the road climbs we passed through the
picturesque villages of A Abeleda and O Pomar. The final few kilometres are by far the steepest. After about half an hour we entered the town. 

On our left was the Santuario de los Remedios, a 19th century church featuring impressive twin towers.
Opposite this is the Praza do Prado. We parked in the square and made our way through the narrow, paved streets towards the castle.

Legend has it that the ruler of this ancient fortress or castro lost a battle to the Lord of Lima. In order to save himself and his family, the defeated ruler offered the Lord one of his three daughters to which he replied¿cal delas? (what of them); from that day forth the place has been known as Castro Caldelas. 
 
Legends aside, this mountainous area has been inhabited for over 4500 years: a fact supported by the discovery of megalithic burial chambers. 
 
During the Roman occupation, between 137 BC and 19 BC the town became an important stopover on the Via Nova (The Roman road from Braga in Portugal to Astorga in Castile & Leon).

The centre piece of the town is a medieval castle, constructed by Pedro Fernández de Castro between
1336 and 1343. Its strategic importance is clearly illustrated by the number of previous owners. Over the entrance are no fewer than four different coats of arms; the Osorio (two wolves), the Castro (six circular forms), the Kingdom of León (a rampant lion) and the Kingdom of Castile (a castle). Even the Greek letter tau, symbol of the Order of the Knights Templar, is inscribed on the clock tower.

The views from the castle walls are stunning: mile after mile of rolling hills, deep valleys, and distant mountains fading into an endless sky. From the clock tower on one side to the keep on the other, every aspect affords outstanding views over the Ribeira Sacra and the Sierra de Mazaira mountains.

The torre or keep, houses the oldest written document in Galicia. Dated 1228 and signed by Alfonso IX, it granted certain privileges to residents of the town. Its discovery was extremely significant. All other documents relating to the town were destroyed in 1809 when Napoleonic troops set fire to the castle in retaliation for a local uprising.

The roof of the torre is probably the best place to appreciate the Iglesia de Santa Isabel (Church of St. Elizabeth). Dating from the 16t century, it’s the oldest church in the town and stands at the edge of an outcrop overlooking the Sil canyon.

Today, Castro Caldelas is a quiet, friendly town with breathtaking views over the surrounding countryside; but its long and turbulent history makes it a fascinating place to explore.  
 

Vine Watch – week 24

After much deliberation and days of testing, we’ve chosen the date for this year’s vendimia (grape harvest). We are gearing up for Sunday the 21st of September. The only obstacle might be the weather. The forecast is not favourable but meteorologists are not renowned for their accuracy.

It’s said that Melbourne in Australia can experience four seasons in one day, here in Galicia those same seasons can occur within an hour. Keep your fingers crossed. The countdown has begun.    

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Does paradise exist?

The council of Sober certainly believes so. Their latest tourist guide proudly boasts, ‘O Paraiso Existe’ (Paradise Exists). Its publication coincided with the completion of a series of upgrades to the nine viewing platform along the river Sil.

If their dower, green leaflet was anything to go by, it seemed unlikely that we would discover a portal to the Promised Land. Undeterred we decided to test the council’s claim and headed out in search of paradise. 

Travelling across the municipality from west to east, our journey began at Xabrega. Here, a narrow staircase of natural stone climbs around the hillside. Oak trees provided shade from the afternoon sun and fallen acorns cracked underfoot as we climbed the steps. As we reached the top the vast panorama opened out. We clambered past a small vineyard and up to a low walled viewpoint. From here we stared out across a small lake, formed by the Santo Estevo dam. On the far shore, pine forests and deciduous woodland blanket the valley.

So far so good: Sober’s claim was living up to its billing.

Second stop on the tour was Os Chancis. When it comes to this location, we’re a tad biased. After all, this is the site of our favourite summertime bar. The viewpoint is situated on the hillside, just above the bar. A steep pathway leads passed terraced vineyards and up to a wooden pergola. The view from here is breathtaking.

If ever there was a roadmap to paradise, we were surely on it.

As the crow flies, or in this case a soaring eagle, the next viewpoint at A Cividade is just over 2 km's upstream. By car it’s 18: the last 3 of which are along an unmade track. This modern viewing platform was designed by the architect Isabel Aguirre in 2012. The structure overhangs the canyon like a giant diving board giving visitors spectacular views both upstream and down.

A short drive from here is the platform at O Boqueiriño. On the opposite side of the canyon is the abandoned Monastery of Santa Cristina, its conical spire and red tiled roof appear to be floating in a sea of ancient woodland.

Santiorxo marked the halfway point of our tour. Back in July, this viewpoint was the venue for a moonlit concert. The hypnotic melody of a solo cellist echoing across the canyon provided a moment of pure magic. Today we were alone, almost 2000 feet above sea level, staring out across an endless landscape.

By the time we reached viewpoint number six at Cadeiras, we were ready for a drink. An ice-cold beer on a warm summer’s day really hit the spot. It almost felt as though we’d reached paradise but there were still three more to go.

We headed towards the village of Amandi. From here the road winds its way down the valley through row after row of lush-green vines, laden with inky-red grapes. About halfway down is the Os Chelos viewpoint. The valley here is far less severe than downstream; as such, this is one of the few places where vines grow on both sides of the river.

From here we were able to take the Aba Sacra route along the valley. It’s a single lane road that offers travellers magnificent views of the river as it hugs the contours of the valley, twisting and turning as it cuts a path through the vineyards.

Our penultimate stop was Soutochao: a large outcrop surrounded with terraced vineyards rising from the river. A dusty track runs along the top of the ridge, ending at the viewpoint. By now, the afternoon sun was casting long shadows on both sides of the valley with only the most prized vineyards still bathed in bright light.

Travelling from west to east, we’d saved the most outstanding viewpoint until last. All those who visit Pena do Castelo will surely know that paradise does exist: right here, right now.

The area of Galicia known as the Ribeira Sacra is blessed with breathtaking beauty at every turn but if you’re searching for paradise, the municipality of Sober will definitely lead you there. 
 

Vine Watch – week 23

This week we took delivery of a brand new destemmer and crusher. Come harvest time, this one piece of equipment will save us over 50 hours of painstaking, backbreaking, mind-numbing work.

In years gone by, we have removed all the stems by hand before pouring the must into the vats. This new addition will crush the grapes and remove the stems in one process. Excitement levels are rising.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

These are some of my favourite snaps from April and May. There are 15 in all. I’d love to hear which your favourite 3 are. Why not post a comment and let me know.

April began with a spectacular display of cherry blossom, both white and pink. We’re extremely fortunate that our neighbour José has an orchard full of both.

The medieval fair came to town during April. Giant street jesters, atop tall stilts, entertained the crowds of onlookers.

At this time of year the river Cabe is at its height. Here the afternoon sunshine illuminates the Photinia Red Robin hedge as the river drifts slowly under the Romanesque bridge in the centre of Monforte de Lemos.

The unseasonably warm weather brings Spanish tigers out of hibernation. Until their wings have dried their survival is in the lap of the Gods; or in this case the tip of my fingers.

Spain’s second most visited tourist attraction – The cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Even essential repairs can’t mask the majesty of this magnificent building.

El Escolapios in Monforte de Lemos: a small town with a big heart.

A blushing beauty in the centre of town.

Where legions dare to tread. The ancient Roman wall of Lugo city with the cathedral dominating the skyline.

Letting life float by on a relaxing boat trip along the river Sil. To the left the province of Ourense and to the right Lugo.

A roof with a view – Not quite on top of the world but certainly on top of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

I’ll be your dog. If he had a euro for every snap, this Lugo city pooch would be a millionaire.

The lilac toned mountains of Galicia – Someone should write a song.

The only way is down from the cathedral roof in Santiago de Compostela.

The sun angles down a narrow city street in Lugo town centre.

I’m just nipping down the local for a pint, anyone fancy coming?

Vine Watch – week 9

The garnacha vines have started flowering. Surprisingly, they’re the first to flower and the last to ripen. Cluster thinning is now a priority. Studies have shown that thinning after the vine has flowered has no beneficial effects on the harvest. Cluster thinning before flowering leads to higher quality grapes and speeds ripening.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

More often than not, the March weather throws up a few surprises here in Galicia; this year was no exception. Damp, misty mornings characterised the beginning of the month. Busy spiders created intricate webs, hanging from dormant grapevines like carefully crocheted doilies.   

From one extreme to the other: the temperature soared.

The tulips rejoiced at the warm bright sunshine.

A day of mourning followed for my friend Mariano: The Madrileño. 

This glorious spring weather was an opportunity not to be missed.

There was work to do in the vineyards.
            “A keen eye and a pair of razor-sharp secateurs are all that separate success from failure. Mistakes at this stage will be costly”.

Even the storks were busy: a little minor renovation work in preparation for the new arrivals. 

The garden is hardly at its best at this time of year but don’t tell the pansies that.

We’re not out of the woods yet though. The icy cold of winter refuses to let go of the distant mountain tops.

The church of Canabal provides a calming backdrop for a neighbour’s horse. He’s just happy to be out in the sunshine after a long wet winter.

In the village of Sober the flags are out, Spain and Galicia, motionless in the still air.

Not a second of daylight is wasted as the work continues on – from dawn until dusk.

Throughout the day clumps of Red Clover brighten up the roadside verges.

Before anyone asks, no I'm not a train spotter, I just happened to find myself down by the station in Canabal.

The sun has set on another month. The clocks have leapt forward and summer is on its way.

These are my favourite snaps but which is your favourite?

Don’t forget, to be in with a chance of winning a 7 night stay at our luxury farmhouse rental Campo Verde, you have to enter the competition. Click on the photo below, answer the simple question, leave your name and email address and hit the send button - simple! 

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook  

Two days remain of our winter break on the Costa del Sol. Once again we’ve had a wonderful time: the weather has been kind; family and friends have come and gone. As usual I’ve been busy snapping away and with scenery like this, it’s easy to create memorable impressions.
 
Have a look and tell me which are your three favourite snaps – there are 25 to choose from.