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Fallen Giants and Troglodytes

1/10/2014

5 Comments

 
Hidden deep within the Galician countryside is one of the oldest Christian monasteries in Spain, San Pedro de Rocas (St. Peter of the Rocks). Its foundation stone credits seven men with its construction in the year 573 AD.
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The valley of the river Sil
The drive to this ancient monument took us across the river Sil. Narrow country lanes meandered through pine forests and pastures. Halfway down the Sil valley we passed through the abandoned village of A Chaira before crossing the river. The steep ascent affords amazing views over the Encoro de Santo Estevo (reservoir).
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Santa Estevo reservoir
Just outside the town of Luintra we stumbled across a sign which read ‘Necrópole megalítica de Mámoas do Moura’ (Neolithic cemetery). Curiosity aroused, we turned off the main road and followed the sign. Within a few hundred metres, we found ourselves on a high plateau surrounded by ancient stone monuments. The landscape was littered with Neolithic megaliths.
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Neolithic Megalith
Today these prehistoric artefacts are referred to as dolmen. On this site, they date from 4,500 BC to 2,000 BC. To put this into context, Stonehenge was built between 3,100 and 2,500 BC. The original structures consisted of two or more upright stones supporting a roof or capstone; covered with a mound of earth. Hence their local name: mamoa is Galician for breast.
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How to build a dolmen
Archaeologists are unsure of their exact purpose but believe they were burial chambers. For the smaller, older dolmen this seems a reasonable assumption; but surveying this vast landscape of fallen giants, I find it difficult to believe that these huge structures were built solely to house the dead. Some of the capstones are more than five metres in diameter while others have perfect circles chiselled into the solid granite.
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Fallen Giant
Whatever their purpose, this site held great significance for the ancient inhabitants of this land. At 750 metres above sea level (2,500 feet), the views over the surrounding countryside are breathtaking. If you ever wanted to feel close to your God, this would be the place to come.
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A magical landscape
Eventually, I managed to tear myself away from this magical place. Half an hour later we were driving up a narrow track, winding its way through dense deciduous woodland. We entered a small car park. A notice board read, ‘Monasterio de San Pedro de Rocas’. Gravel chippings crunched underfoot as we made our way towards the bell tower, perched atop a natural rock, 20 metres high.
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The bell tower at San Pedro de Rocas
Inside this 6th century Christian temple are three naves, carved out of the solid rock. In the ceiling of the central nave, a hole allows light to filter into this manmade cave. On the floor of the church and atrium, numerous tombs have been excavated out of the granite.

Located next door and housed in an old manor house is the visitors centre. There’s a shop selling regional wine and locally produced craft items. In other rooms, interactive exhibits show places of interest and give detailed information about the monastery.
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Tombs chiselled from soild granite
The Ribeira Sacra is steeped in history and overflowing with hidden treasures. It’s a landscape full of surprises, where a drive in the countryside brings with it a new experience at every turn in the road.  

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook
5 Comments
Elizabeth Varadan link
4/10/2014 04:38:52 pm

Both sites sound awe-inspiring. It's amazing to wonder how those stones were stood up in place, and how the capstone was laid on top. It's hard to imagine what technology could have made it possible 5,000 years ago. Thanks for these terrific pictures.

Reply
Craig
4/10/2014 05:43:03 pm

To clamber over such ancient monuments was amazing Elizabeth. If only they could speak - what stories they would have to tell.

Reply
http://www.freelancehouse.co.uk/ link
14/12/2015 11:15:04 pm

The photos are gorgeous, Craig! Thanks for sharing! I've never been to Spain, but I'd love to. They say its monasteries are worth admiring, as I can see from your trip, it's really so. I'm really excited to see this wonderful place. Hope I can handle the financial side and, at last, book a ticket and fly there.
Regards,
Charles

Reply
Craig
15/12/2015 02:22:54 am

Thanks for stopping by Charles, I'm delighted you enjoyed the piece. Galicia is a beautiful and unique part of Spain. If you ever get a chance to visit check out our holiday rental property, you won't be disappointed - http://www.getaway-galicia.com

Reply
http://www.freelancehouse.co.uk/
15/12/2015 11:17:31 pm

Thanks for the link, Craig! The place is really luxurious. Especially for the couple. I think my wife will like such a surprise:)
Cheers,
Charles




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