The town of San Clodio is situated on the eastern edge of the area known as the Ribeira Sacra in Galicia. It’s a small town with a long and sometimes brutal past. Throughout its history, this small parish has formed an important link in the region’s communications, sitting as it does on the banks of the river Sil. On the opposite riverbank lies the town of Quiroga, gateway to the O’ Courel.     

In the 1st century BC Romans ruled, brought here by the area’s rich gold deposits. Such was their desire for this most precious of metals that, a few kilometres upstream at Montefurado, they excavated a 400 metre long tunnel to divert the river’s natural course. The result left a three kilometre meander isolated from the river, enabling the Romans to extract the gold directly from the dry riverbed.

During the Middle Ages, the discovery of the remains of Saint James brought a different type of explorer to the area. Christian pilgrims, en route to Santiago de Compostela, were able to use the infrastructure and communication routes first created by the Romans. The route along the Sil valley, known as the winter route, provided an easier alternative for those travelling from France. 

San Clodio’s most recent history is also its most brutal. During the Napoleonic invasion, many parts of
Galicia remained apathetic to their invaders; indeed, some Spanish generals actively embraced their conquerors. However; pockets of resistance remained, led in many cases by the clergy. 
 
In 1809 resistance fighters ambushed and killed a French officer near the tunnel at Montefurado. Reprisals were swift and merciless. Soon after this attack a troop of French soldiers entered the village of San Clodio. When one local resident insulted the commanding officer by refusing to shout, “Vive la France”, he was summarily executed. What followed were a series of war atrocities to rival any in history. 

The French went on the rampage, slaughtering anyone they found and stealing the village strong box. Villagers took refuge in mountain caves only to be discovered and massacred. In the nearby village of Chenzas a young girl was kidnapped; she was never heard of again. Eyewitness accounts recall carts, laden with corpses, being pulled through the village by oxen. 

But the French didn’t have it all their own way. In the 1950’s, during work to widen the existing railway line, a macabre secret was unearthed. The remains of several French soldiers, still in uniform and carrying their weapons, was discovered.

The arrival of the railroad in 1883 brought a new era of prosperity to the town. Today the station is no more than a quaint building of historical interest. 

Another of the town’s outstanding architectural landmarks is the Ponte de Ferro or Iron Bridge. Construction began in 1883 under the supervision of Pelayo Mancebo. The fact that it is still in daily use is a testament to its design.

Today, San Clodio is a sleepy little town just off the main N-120 highway. It sits in a beautifully tranquil valley, surrounded by mountains. Strolling next to the river or through its quiet streets, it’s difficult to imagine what horrors it has witnessed. The next time you’re driving through the area, take a break and explore the secrets of San Clodio.

Vine Watch – week 18

Work continues daily in the vineyard, removing dead grapes from the maturing bunches and dying foliage infected by the black rot disease. After so much effort and such an excellent start to the season, it’s soul destroying work. This year is all about damage limitation and saving as much fruit as possible.    

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Nestled in the foothills of Monte Faro, on the eastern edge of the province of Pontevedra in Galicia, is the small town of Rodeiro. It’s the type of sleepy, rural backwater that travellers pass through on their
way to somewhere else. It lies in the Val de Camba (Vale of Camba) on the Camino Invierno (winter route of the Camino de Santiago). You could be forgiven for thinking that this is its only claim to fame but dig a little deeper and Rodeiro offers visitors a warm welcome, beautiful architecture, and a great sense of pride in its local heroes; past and present.

The architectural jewel in Rodeiro’s crown is undoubtedly the town hall. It’s situated on the Praza Foi, just off the main street. Although the building is not of major historical significance, it must surely be one of the prettiest ayuntamientos in the whole of Spain.

The town developed around the crossing of two ancient roads. Nowadays, the crossroad has been superseded by a large roundabout. Centrepiece of this circular island is an impressive fountain featuring an intricately carved sculpture of a carro wheel (a traditional two wheeled Galician cart).

Adjacent to this is another marble sculpture. Chiselled from a single piece of local granite, it depicts an elderly couple dressed in local attire. It celebrates the contribution made by those of the 3rd age to the continuing prosperity of the area. The local economy relies heavily on agriculture and in particular milk
production. In common with many rural towns in Galicia, Rodeiro has an ageing population. This statue
seeks to celebrate the sacrifice of ordinary town’s folk whose actions have left a legacy for future generations. Some were lucky and remained in the area to work; others became economic migrants to cities within Spain or in many cases, even further afield.

Across from this stands a fitting memorial to the town’s most famous hero: the aviator Gumersindo Areán Rodriguez. He was born in the nearby village of Pedroso in January 1898. The son of farm labourers, he
went on to become one of the most celebrated Republican pilots of the Spanish civil war. Forced into exile in 1939, he was reunited with his family in 1942 when they fled to Mexico. He remained there until his death in 1974.

Rodeiro clearly feels a historic link to this unsettled period in Spanish history: a point emphasised by the name of our lunchtime restaurant, Meson O’ Guerra (The War). Despite its name the owners of this charming establishment were attentive and friendly.

We started lunch with homemade Spanish tortilla. I followed this with Merluza a la galego: two moist
steaks of hake served with boiled potatoes and drizzled with an oily pimiento sauce. Melanie opted for Lomo a la plancha, thinly sliced steaks of grilled pork served with French fries. We washed it down with a bottle of Viña Costeira: an excellent white from the Ribeiro region in Ourense.

The next time your journey takes you through Rodeiro, set off a little early and take time out to explore this small town with a big heart.

Vine Watch – week 17

There are many drawbacks to working two vineyards in two different villages with two different micro-climates but one very important advantage. When one vineyard is decimated by black rot, there’s a good chance that the other will survive unscathed. 

Thankfully, this has been the case this year. Our second vineyard, just across the valley in Vilamelle, is in good condition. There’s a little bit of insect activity and a small amount of fungal disease but nothing
more than I would expect at this time of year. Harvest quantities are likely to be lower than last year but barring a disaster, we will still be making wine in a few months time.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

*************************************************************************

Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

The Ribeira Sacra is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) and one of the most difficult places on the planet to harvest grapes. This relatively small and little known wine producing region is located in the south of Lugo province and the north of the province of Ourense in Galicia, Spain.

The steep sided valleys of the river Sil and river Miño provide growers with an ideal micro-climate and produces grapes with intense flavours and naturally high sugar levels. The vines are grown on narrow
terraces or bancadas and rise from the banks of the rivers to over a thousand feet. Like a giant staircase, the terraces hug the contours of the valley. Mechanisation on these steep, narrow terraces is impossible and some vineyards are only accessible by boat. It’s said that six labourers and one tractor, working in the gently undulating vineyards of Castile and La Mancha, can harvest more grapes than three thousand workers in the Ribeira Sacra.

Within this unique wine growing region there are many other enthusiastic amateurs producing fresh, juicy reds from the area’s most abundant grape variety, Mencia. I’m proud to count myself among its
number.

The difficulties of working the steep river slopes are offset against the benefits of the micro-climate that provide ideal conditions for this northerly, more temperate corner of Spain. For those of us working vineyards outside this microcosm of weather, there are other problems to overcome.

Work in my vineyard, on the flat flood plains of the river Cabe, starts much later in the year than most. The risk of late frosts delay pruning until the new buds are almost ready to burst into life. This year, I started work in the second half of March: pruning the vines and tilling the vineyard. Mother Nature worked her magic, providing the perfect conditions for a healthy start. Buds swelled in the warm sunshine and mild nights kept Jack Frost at bay. 

By the time of the Sober wine fiesta, in mid-April, the buds had burst and young leaves basked in warm Spring sunlight. By the end of the month, tiny bunches of grapes were preparing to flower. May brought an explosion of growth. The young canes grew from less than an inch long to over three foot. Regular spraying kept the vineyard free of pests and fungal diseases at bay. By the beginning of June, delicate flowers blanketed the young grapes: a brief moment of beauty blown away in the first strong breeze.

The long road to maturity could now begin. A period of inclement weather was countered by more spraying. Mid-July and all was well but then disaster struck: a vintner’s worst nightmare– black rot. 

Like the Black Death of the fourteenth century, black rot attacks without conscience. Plump and healthy grapes are reduced to shrivelled black berries. A spell of wet weather compounded the problem. By the time I was able to spray them again, the damage had been done. 

From now until harvest time, each infected grape will have to be hand-plucked from every developing bunch: a momentous task.

Now is the time to pull a cork and raise a glass. Not, as you might think, to drown my sorrows and wallow in self-pity. No, this is the time to savour the unique and exquisite flavours of Ribeira Sacra wine and motivate myself to stay the course and see the job through. 
 
Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

The name Regina Viarum might ring a few bells for some. You could be thinking of the Appian Way in
Italy: the ancient Roman road connecting the capital with the Mediterranean port of Brundisium, but no. On this occasion I’m referring to one of the most prestigious wineries (bodegas) in the Ribeira Sacra. Let me refresh your memory.

“Perched majestically on the edge of the river Sil gorge is the Regina Viarum winery. Even the name conjures up images of Imperial Roman legions marching towards Rome with their precious cargo of fruity red wines.”

This short extract is taken from my book, ‘Journey To A Dream’. 
 
Like a magician’s illusion, the last twelve years have disappeared. All that remains are amazing memories. Since our previous visit to the winery, the adjacent village of Doade has transformed itself into a bustling tourist centre while managing to retain its rural charm.

Creeping slowly through the village, we caught the first glimpse of our destination. Perched on a hilltop and built in the style of a palatial Roman villa, it commands an enviable position overlooking the terraced slopes of the river Sil. 

A long, meandering driveway takes visitors from the road to their destination. Both sides are lined with young grapevines and tall, spindly cypress trees. Statues of the Gods greeted our approach but nothing prepares visitors for the panorama awaiting them from the car park. I often see lists in magazines and periodicals with titles such as, ‘The 10 most spectacular views in the world’ or ‘Ten must-see places before you die’. I’m sure they are all wonderful locations but in my experience, the landscape from here is unsurpassable.   

Having feasted on the view, we entered the winery. Twelve years on from our last visit, the sterilized feel of a newly built property has been replaced with a more lived-in ambience. Other than that, the place remains very much the same. We joined a small party of tourists on a wine tasting tour. It began in the bodega and finished upstairs in the tasting suite.

By the time we hopped back in the car the thermostat had hit 32 degrees and the time had ticked round to 2:10.

‘Shall we stop in the village for lunch?’ I asked.

When we’d passed through the village earlier I’d noticed a new bar, Taperia a Ribeira (Doade 55, Sober,
Lugo +34 982152495). It seemed as good a place as any to stop. Wrought iron gates lead into a charming courtyard. Leaves from a sprawling grapevine provided natural shade and ripening grapes dangled from overhead trellising.

We ordered a bottle of the region’s finest and una tabla (a selection of cured meats and cheese). The barman proudly announced that the chorizo was homemade: a real treat and a sure indication that the ham would be home-cured too. 

The tabla arrived; lomo, salchichon, cheese, and best of all delicious homemade chorizo, and melt-in-the-mouth home-cured jamon. We washed it down with one of my favourite white wines of the area, Val da Lenda: a fruity and slightly acidic wine made from 100% godello grapes.

It felt good to revisit an old friend and discover a new one. Rest assured, we’ll be back before another twelve years have elapsed.

I rarely ask questions but I’m curious to know, if you had to choose one place in the whole of Spain that I should visit before I die where would it be?

Vine Watch – week 15

What a glorious week of sunshine; exactly what my little green pearls needed. I spent the week working in the vineyard moving from vine to vine. It’s tiresome work but important to ensure that the young bunches of grapes are hanging free. I still have some way to go but there’s no real hurry. 

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

*************************************************************************

Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Without doubt, Ribadavia is a sparkling jewel in Galicia’s historic crown. In 1063 King Garcia chose
Ribadavia as the capital of the kingdom of Galicia. That particular honour has long since passed to
another. Today, however; the town holds a new title: capital of the Ribeiro wine growing region.

We entered the town from the direction of Ourense, travelling along the Autovia das Rias Baixas (A52). Having left the highway we made our way along minor roads into the heart of the town. Before long, the ruins of the castle of the Counts of Ribadavia came into view; directly opposite is a car park.

We found our bearings and headed straight for the Praza Maior (Plaza Mayor), in search of the tourist information office. A narrow street, barely wide enough for traffic, turns left; then right before opening out into the main square.

The tourist information office is housed in a 17th century pazo (manor house) in the north eastern corner of the square. This baroque pazo was home to the Sarmiento family, Counts of Ribadavia. An honour bestowed on them by the monarchy in 1476 in recognition of their support during the Reconquista; in particular during the siege of the last Moorish stronghold, Granada.

Directly opposite the tourist office stands the 16th century town hall and bell tower. The town hall has a
19th century façade but the original bell tower, built between 1545 and 1555, stands to this day. What I found particularly interesting was the accuracy of the 300 year old sundial situated just below the modern clock.

Grasping our newly acquired tourist map, we began our self-guided tour. One of the advantages of exploring Ribadavia is its size. With the exception of the church and convent of St. Francis, all its historic
landmarks are within a stones throw of each other. 

Within two minutes we were approaching the tiny square of Plaza de la Magdalena and the church of St. Mary Magdalene (Iglesia de Santa Mª Magdalena). Our route took us along narrow streets lined either side with medieval porticos.

From here we strolled along Porta Nova de Abaixo, part of the old Jewish quarter. It’s believed that Jews settled in the area in the 11th century and specialised in the wine trade. This charming lane leads to Porta Nova, one of the three remaining 12th century castle gates.

By now we’d built up quite an appetite. We headed back to Plaza Maior and the Restaurante Vinoteca Ribadavia (Praza Maior 10, Ribadavia, +34 905551721). Their menu of the day (menu del dia) is a three course lunch with a bottle of wine, water, and coffee for a fixed price of ten euros per head - outstanding value. The wine, Castro Rei, was crisp, light, and fresh: typical of the wonderful Ribeiro white wines produced in the area.

After lunch our exploration continued. I was particularly keen to see the House of the Inquisition. En route we passed the 12th century church of St. James (Iglesia de Santiago). Built in the Romanesque design, it features an impressive 24 paned rose window. 

From here we strolled to the viewing point overlooking the river Avia. On the far bank sits the 17th century church and convent of St. Francis (San Francisco). Also visible from here is the Eiffel-style, iron railway bridge connecting Vigo at the coast with the inland city of Ourense.

Next stop on our tour was the 16th century House of the Inquisition. Lord only knows what went on behind these closed doors. This house was the office of the Holy See charged with overseeing the execution of catholic doctrine.

More narrow streets and medieval porticos took us to the 12th century church of St. John (Iglesia de San
Juan). The church belonged to the Order of the Knights of St. John. In 1213 the order established a hostel in the town, providing medical and military aid to pilgrims travelling the Camino de Portuguese from
Braga in Portugal to the tomb of St. James in Santiago de Compostela. 

By now we’d come full circle. Just outside the historic centre is the 17th century church of our Lady of the Portal (Iglesia de Ntra. Señora del Portal) and the 13thand 14th century church and convent of St. Dominic (Sto. Domingo). The latter represents one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in the area.

One location not in the tourist guide but in my opinion well worth a visit is the town cemetery located opposite the church of St. Dominic. The high walls and gated entrance are quite imposing but once inside the spectacular forested scenery of the Miño valley seems to merge harmoniously with the tombs and headstones of the town’s dear departed.

Any visit to Galicia would not be complete without taking a stroll around this enchanting and historic town. I for one can’t wait to return.

Follow this link to watch a short video of Ribadavia – Strolling through the passageways of time.

Vine Watch – week 14

Last week’s showers sparked an explosion of weeds in the vineyard. In a month’s time, this would be good news: a covering of weeds helps manage the growth of vine foliage. Until then, they are most unwelcome. I had hoped to be finished with the rotavator for this year but it wasn’t to be. 
 
Despite signs of mildew on some vines, this year’s crop is developing well. Pea-green is slowly changing to red as the young fruits mature. It’s time to ensure that the young bunches of grapes are hanging loose below the foliage. This allows good air circulation and unrestricted development.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

*************************************************************************

Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.
 
Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

About a month ago, the local council in Sober informed us of a forthcoming concert.  The outdoor performance would take place in the Praza do Concello on Saturday the 28th of June starting at 22:00. To my surprise, the announcement was made on the council’s Facebook page. 

Reading the post shocked me to the core. It wasn’t the fact that the council had organised a concert; these types of events occur quite regularly at this time of year, or that they’d chosen social media to trumpet the news: although that in itself was extremely unusual. No, what really stunned me was the timeframe. 

Giving us a month’s notice of an upcoming event is unheard of. We usually hear about these things the previous day. A photocopied leaflet, on either bright-pink or deep-blue copier paper, is hand-delivered by our local community post-lady. Announcing the event a month in advance was nothing short of a miracle.

A quick internet search provided the explanation. The event was no ordinary concert, no fiesta-circuit orchestra or local youth band, the players at this event were monsters of rock; legends in their own lifetime. The fact that I hadn’t heard of them was neither here nor there.

The rock legends in question were the four piece band Sôber. That’s right, Sôber were playing in Sober.

The band was formed in 1993 and went on to release five albums before splitting in 2004. At the start of 2010, they regrouped and released a further two albums. Their most successful, Paradysso released in
2002, went platinum.

The mayor of Sober, Luis Fernandez Guitan, had certainly pulled one out of the hat this time. Before being elected he would regularly arrange concerts: the classical Spanish guitar player in the courtyard of the Gundivos pottery, to name but one. His tactic of bringing music to the people might well have got him elected.

On the evening of the concert we strolled up the lane to Sober. The stage had been erected on one side of the square, adjacent to the town hall. A crowd of several hundred people had gathered directly in front. The central part of the square was occupied by an enormous four-sided bar. It seemed ironic that a group who actively preach sobriety should have one of the biggest bars I’d ever seen; slap-bang in the middle of the audience. Melanie and I wandered to the back of the crowd to get a clear view of the stage.

The concert was quite a low-key affair. The three front men spent the whole show sitting on bar stools, plucking their instruments and blasting out the lyrics. The crowd revelled in the familiarity of the play-list.

All in all we had a good night. It wasn’t quite Glastonbury but if the opportunity ever arose, we wouldn’t
hesitate to go see them again. 

Vine Watch – week 13

Unlucky for some. On the thirteenth week of my vine watch report, I have some bad news to relay. In the last few days we have had a number of showers, some being quite heavy. As a consequence, a few of the vines are showing signs of mildew. At this stage it’s not a major problem. The number of infected vines is small and of those, the fungal growth is very light. 
 
Although scientific studies have shown that the presence of mildew has no effect on the quality or taste of the finished wine, if the infected number of vines remains low, I will not be adding these fruits to the
harvest.

Keep your fingers crossed.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

*************************************************************************

Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

An excursion to Lugo, our provincial capital, usually spells trouble. As the administrative centre of the province of Lugo, most official undertakings are resolved there. However; as anyone who has lived in Spain will tell you, the wheels of Spanish bureaucracy turn immeasurably slowly and often slip a gear and judder into reverse. Thankfully, today’s visit did not involve officialdom: today’s trip was purely for pleasure.

Compared to our home village of Canabal with a population of less than 100, Lugo, with a populous approaching 100,000, feels like a sophisticated and cosmopolitan metropolis. But despite being the fourth largest city in Galicia, it has managed to maintain a warm and inviting atmosphere. Credit for this must surely go to its 3rd century roman wall. Protected by UNESCO as a world heritage site, it is the only roman wall in existence that remains fully intact: completely encircling the old town and giving the city centre that small town feel.

Over recent years, our travelling time to Lugo has been slashed. Once the new C546 link road is completed it will take a mere half an hour. Where the money comes from to build these superb new highways I have no idea. I’m just grateful for stress-free motoring along traffic-free highways.

On reaching Lugo we parked in the underground car park opposite the Porta do Bispo Izquierdo
entrance to the old town. In total, there are ten gates or Portas through the ramparts. We strolled through the gate, turned right and within 100 metres found the access steps up onto the wall. 

From here one gets a real sense of the enormity and wonder of these 1700 year old defences. I suspect its longevity is due in part to the materials used in its construction. The wall is built mainly from local slate. These flat and irregular stones are extremely hard wearing and of little recyclable value.

The weather was perfect for a gentle stroll around the town: clear blue skies and hardly a breath of wind. A full circuit of the wall is just over two kilometres: the perfect distance to build up an appetite before lunch. Within minutes of beginning our stroll, an older, yet muscular looking gent; shirt off and chest exposed, came dashing towards us. In the blink of an eye he’d sprinted past. Before we’d completed our single circuit, this ageing jogger had zipped past us another four times. I couldn’t help thinking what pleasure he must garner from the knowledge that he may very well outlive his peers and go on to claim the title of, ‘The fittest corpse in the cemetery’.

The Praza Maior in the heart of the old town is a great place to dine. A number of restaurants line one side of this picturesque square. On this occasion we decided to lunch at one of my favourite Lugo eateries, Cambalache located just outside the ancient walls.  It’s an Italian bistro with a twist. Their dishes are inspired by Italian immigrants settling in Argentina during the early part of the twentieth century. For us this is a real treat but hopefully, when the new highway is complete, our visits to Lugo
will become more frequent.

Vine Watch – week 12

Humid summer storms have brought more wind damage to the vines and the occasional short but heavy shower has meant more frequent fungicide spraying to prevent the growth of mildew.

On the whole the vines are looking healthy. Most have now flowered and some of the young grapes are the size of garden peas. They even look and feel like them: rock hard and pea-green.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

*************************************************************************

Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

Last week, my mother-in-law came to stay. She flew in to Santiago on Ryanair, apparently her broomstick was in for a service. Only joking; she’s a lovely woman. Her visit gave us an excuse to indulge in one of our favourite tourist attractions: a boat trip along the river Sil.

When we first moved to Galicia, one captain plied his trade on the river. At the last count, six boats offered trips through the spectacular Canyon of the river Sil. One of the best, and our favourite, is
operated by a young couple Alex and his partner Keka. They own a small activity centre called Turismo en la Ribeira Sacra.

Their vessel is a small pontoon boat accommodating ten guests. It’s a far more personal and intimate service than the larger vessels working the river. Alex’s knowledge of the canyon, and his willingness to relay it in English, gives him an edge over his rivals. A taste of the local wine, as you drift past the riverside vineyards, doesn’t harm either.

‘Don’t forget the wine,’ I called to Melanie as we left the house.

On our last trip down the river I’d promised Alex that I would bring a bottle of my own wine for him to taste. Before establishing his tourist business he used to work at the wine museum in Monforte de Lemos and has an extensive knowledge of the local wines.

The boat departs from a small jetty at Os Chancis. The weather could hardly have been more perfect for river cruising: a cloudless blue sky, bright sunshine and hardly a breath of wind. With everyone aboard, eight including Alex, we set off upstream.

The river canyon was formed by an earthquake, millions of years ago. With a little imagination, I could almost feel the earth fracturing as we floated along. The river is 300 metres above sea level with some of the surrounding peaks rising to over 1,300 metres. This creates a micro-climate within the canyon; sheltered from the harsh extremes of the Galician weather. 

The two sides of the canyon are very distinctive and create a natural border between two provinces. To the north is Lugo province and to the south Ourense. The sunny, south facing slopes provide excellent conditions for vine growing whereas the north facing slopes are covered in forests. It’s said that because of the zones unique climate, every species of tree grown in Spain can be, and some say is, grown on the north facing slopes.

These near vertical valley sides provide some of the most dangerous and inaccessible vineyards in the world. 

‘One vineyard in Castile and La Mancha, with one tractor and six workers, can produce as much wine as 3000 families in the Ribeira Sacra,’ states Alex.

As we drifted quietly along the river, Alex’s narrative provided an informative and interesting accompaniment.

‘Would you like to sample the wine?’ he asked.

‘Today Alex, you can sample my wine,’ I replied.

I popped the cork and Alex supplied the plastic cups. I poured and handed them out. Using the palm of his hand, Alex rolled the cup along the dashboard of the boat. By now I was becoming a little nervous. He held the cup in his hand and swirled its inky red contents around before checking its nose. I hadn’t expected such a thorough examination.

‘You have oaked the wine?’ he asked.

Crickey! I thought to myself. He hadn’t taken a sip but knew from its subtle aroma that I’d oaked it.

‘Yes,’ I replied, ‘I use oak chips from France.’

He raised the cup to his lips; I held my breath. A short pause followed while he savoured the flavours on his palate.

‘Excellent wine,’ he said, ‘as good as any of the bodegas in the area,’ he added.

Relief cleared the lump in my throat and I took a gulp of cool air. 

I managed to contain my elation on the return journey home; even the arduous climb back to the car floated away on a wave of smug self-satisfaction. 

Enjoy your own relaxing boat trip along the river Sil in this short video.

Vine Watch- week 11

All the vines are now in full bloom or have already flowered. Everyday the foliage grows at an alarming rate. The excellent weather of the past week has seen to that. Nipping off the side shoots and keeping the foliage under control is a daily task. As the sun begins to set, I stroll around the vineyard nipping here and tucking there. It’s very relaxing: some people fish; I nip and tuck.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

*************************************************************************

Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

On Saturday morning Melanie wandered out of the dressing room carrying a pile of dirty washing.

‘I’ll just pop these in the washer before I make a cuppa,’ she said, closing the bedroom door behind her.

This, lengthier than usual, absence gave me the opportunity I’d been waiting for. Without delay I jumped out of bed and pulled the bathroom scales out from under the shoe cupboard. Some time ago, we’d invested in a set of digital scales. The old ones were hopeless.

Fearing the worst, I’d decided that a private weigh-in was preferable to public humiliation. I tapped the top of the scales with my toe and waited for the digital display to show three zeros. Nervously, I stepped on. The display jumped slightly before coming to a halt.

That can’t be right, I thought to myself.

I stepped off quickly; waited for the display to go blank and tapped the top once more. Three zeros appeared. Carefully, I stepped back on.

Surely not, I thought, perhaps there’s a bit of fluff under the pads.

I stepped back off and picked them up. The only points of contact with the floor are four small rubber pads: one on each corner. All had a little fluff stuck to the rubber. I brushed it off with my finger and set the scales back down. 

Confident of a better result, I tapped the top of the scales and stepped on. I couldn’t believe it, not the slightest change. I even tried removing my glasses to see if that would make a difference; but then I couldn’t see the damn display. Save for amputation, there was only one solution. Just then I heard the kitchen door close and the tinkle of a teaspoon. Quickly, I pushed the scales back under the shoe cupboard and jumped into bed.

There’s only one thing for it, I thought to myself, it’s out with the bike. Surely a bit of physical exercise will rectify the situation.

Later that morning I broached the subject.

‘I think I’ll go for a ride on my bike this afternoon,’ I said nonchalantly.
‘O.K.’ replied Melanie, oblivious to my secret weigh-in.

Both our bikes are stored down the side of the house, resting comfortably on their stand. With the cobwebs brushed away, I pressed my thumb into the tyres. Unsurprisingly, they both felt a little spongy. From that point on, things went decidedly downhill: just using the foot-pump to inflate them put me out of breath. Twice around the patio, to test the brakes, and I was ready for off: full of enthusiasm, if a little low on energy.  

The lane in front of the house is on a slight incline. Determined to burn-off some calories I set off up the lane. As I neared the brow of the hill my leg muscles felt like they were about to explode.

About halfway through my fat-fighting challenge, the cheeks of my bum began to complain. A little further and my, ‘gentlemen’s bits’ felt like they’d fallen off. A quick check put my mind at ease but did nothing for the blood circulation. By the time I’d completed the 10 kilometre ride my backside felt like the flesh had rubbed away and my bones were grating on the so called gel-filled saddle.

Gasping for air I pushed open the gate and parked the bike. Gently, I lowered myself into a cushioned garden chair and contemplated the summer ahead.

Why is it that most things that are bad for you taste good and most that are good for you feel bad? Someone somewhere has a cruel sense of humour.

Vine Watch- week 10

Midweek storms have taken their toll but thankfully the casualty figures weren’t too high. The photo shows three of the many withered shoots, broken by the high winds. On the bright side, most of the vines have started flowering. Once that’s over, my little pearls will begin to swell, on their long journey to ripeness.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

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Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit their website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook

These are some of my favourite snaps from April and May. There are 15 in all. I’d love to hear which your favourite 3 are. Why not post a comment and let me know.

April began with a spectacular display of cherry blossom, both white and pink. We’re extremely fortunate that our neighbour José has an orchard full of both.

The medieval fair came to town during April. Giant street jesters, atop tall stilts, entertained the crowds of onlookers.

At this time of year the river Cabe is at its height. Here the afternoon sunshine illuminates the Photinia Red Robin hedge as the river drifts slowly under the Romanesque bridge in the centre of Monforte de Lemos.

The unseasonably warm weather brings Spanish tigers out of hibernation. Until their wings have dried their survival is in the lap of the Gods; or in this case the tip of my fingers.

Spain’s second most visited tourist attraction – The cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Even essential repairs can’t mask the majesty of this magnificent building.

El Escolapios in Monforte de Lemos: a small town with a big heart.

A blushing beauty in the centre of town.

Where legions dare to tread. The ancient Roman wall of Lugo city with the cathedral dominating the skyline.

Letting life float by on a relaxing boat trip along the river Sil. To the left the province of Ourense and to the right Lugo.

A roof with a view – Not quite on top of the world but certainly on top of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

I’ll be your dog. If he had a euro for every snap, this Lugo city pooch would be a millionaire.

The lilac toned mountains of Galicia – Someone should write a song.

The only way is down from the cathedral roof in Santiago de Compostela.

The sun angles down a narrow city street in Lugo town centre.

I’m just nipping down the local for a pint, anyone fancy coming?

Vine Watch – week 9

The garnacha vines have started flowering. Surprisingly, they’re the first to flower and the last to ripen. Cluster thinning is now a priority. Studies have shown that thinning after the vine has flowered has no beneficial effects on the harvest. Cluster thinning before flowering leads to higher quality grapes and speeds ripening.

Copyright © 2014 Craig Briggs

*************************************************************************

Craig and Melanie own and operate a luxury farmhouse rental property called Campo Verde. To find out more about a stay at Campo Verde and Galicia in general, visit our website getaway-galicia 

Craig’s book, Journey To A Dream, is available exclusively from Amazon, to purchase your copy click here for your national Amazon store.

Find out more about Craig, and Galicia or look him up on Facebook