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The Indispensables

2/10/2013

14 Comments

 
Viticulture - n the science of grapes and grape-growing.

That clinical, cold-hearted definition doesn’t quite tell the whole story. For most viticulturists, the true meaning is one of love, devotion, hard work and comradeship. A passion for tending grapes and producing fine wine means far more than mere science and chemistry.  

As work in the vineyard draws to a close, the focus of my attention will soon switch to the bodega (wine cellar). Only one task now remains: deciding on a date for the vendimia (grape harvest).

In theory, choosing when to harvest the grapes is quite straightforward: the science is clear about that. There are three main elements to consider when determining ripeness.

    1. Sweetness or brix, 
    2. Acidity or pH
    3. The level of tartaric acid or TA. 
 
Depending on the variety, each grape has an optimum level for each element. 

For example, the optimum levels for a good red wine are; 
 
    Brix of 22 
    pH of 3.4
    TA in the range 0.6 to 0.8

What could be simpler?

Once a week, for the past four weeks, I have carefully analysed a sample batch of each grape variety and studiously recorded the results. Long, hot, sunny days have seen the sugar level and pH slowly rise, while at the same time the amount of tartaric acid has slowly dropped. 
 
Reaching the optimum levels for all three elements is very unlikely; striking a balanced compromise is part and parcel of the viticulturist’s art. In a mildly satisfying way, it seems fitting that science can only take us so far.

But there’s one more important factor in determining which day to pick. Reassuringly, the final decision remains in the hands of Mother Nature. 
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‘It’s looking like this Thursday,’ I announce, after completing my regular Sunday tests, ‘I’ll just look at the weather forecast.’

A quick check on the internet reveals devastating news: Thursday, 80% chance of rain, and Friday through to the following Sunday, 100% chance of rain with the possibility of violent thunderstorms.

‘The forecast is dreadful. We’re going to have to start picking tomorrow.’

Organising the harvest is like planning a military operation. Behind every successful vendimia is a committed and hardworking team. 

When Hollywood looks for a group of action heroes it turns to ‘The Expendables’. On harvest day, I turn to my team of heroes, ‘The Indispensables’.
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Armed with nothing more than a pair of razor sharp secateurs, his fearless band of brothers set about their task with energy and drive. Oblivious to the dangers, they snip away, stripping the vines of their treasured load. Once the objective is secured, they haul heavy crates of grapes up steep sided vineyards without a thought for their own personal safety. Hour after hour of backbreaking, skin-stripping, nail-breaking labours to rescue the precious fruits ahead of the gathering clouds.

After three days of blood, sweat, and terribly stained fingernails, victory is ours. 

With our objectives achieved, we hand control back to the science. From now on, chemistry will rule.

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Or visit my website at http://www.journeytoadream.co.uk
14 Comments
Cat of Sunshine and Siestas link
1/10/2013 06:46:57 pm

Just finished your book, Craig - glad to know you're dabbling in this fine trade!!

Reply
Craig
1/10/2013 07:22:35 pm

Good Morning Cat
Hope you enjoyed the book. Our first year in Galicia was very difficult but our lifestyle now was well worth that initial trauma.
As for the wine making, we're hoping to be pretty much self sufficient next year.
Tending vines is quite a solitary duty; in contrast to that, harvest time is a great social event - despite the hard work.

Reply
Sue link
1/10/2013 10:00:36 pm

Great post, Craig! Can't wait to hear more about your wine-making :-)

Reply
Craig
2/10/2013 12:34:14 am

Thanks Sue - I'll keep you posted but we're very pleased with the progress so far.

Reply
Elizabeth Varadan link
1/10/2013 10:12:17 pm

It's great to actually see the process in operation. Rajan and I are looking forward to the product in April. :-)

Reply
Craig
2/10/2013 12:36:12 am

No problem Mitty; let's hope your Merlot is progressing nicely.

Reply
Phil link
2/10/2013 02:20:29 am

How much vineyard do you have Craig? And what does that equate to in bottles?

Reply
Craig
2/10/2013 04:13:33 am

Hi Phil
We have two small vineyards - one of which is a foster vineyard. By that I mean we are in temporay charge until the property sells. I'm sure you're aware that putting the words "property" and "sells" in the same sentence, when refering to inland Spain, could mean forever.
When we're finished we should have picked just over 1000 kilos. Using traditional methods, we'd hope to get about 60% in wine (600 litres) - Fancy a drink?

Reply
Phil link
2/10/2013 05:18:14 am

Sounds good to me! Save a bottle in case we're up that way .... ;)

Sue
2/10/2013 05:52:04 am

I think what Phil meant was "save us a case, we're on our way" :-)
(if only - we want to visit your part of Spain - maybe you've just given us the excuse we need!

Craig
2/10/2013 06:05:34 am

Wine will be ready in May - just in time for the decent weather.
If you do decide to come, my favorute month is June - warm weather and field after field of golden gorse.

Ian Barber
3/10/2013 04:35:10 am

What a Bunch!

Reply
Ian Barber
3/10/2013 04:50:33 am

Craig.....is that sweat line genuine?
You must have been grapeful for the good weather so you didn't to wine about the rain.
Rain almost ruined our grape harvest in Tewkesbury, but I'd remembered the umbrella and so didn't get too wet running from the car into the supermarket.

Reply
Craig
3/10/2013 05:59:36 am

You sound like a wally with a brolly.

Reply



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